Bohemian Bolinas: in West Marin, find surfers, bird-watching, art, and oysters - Travel - tourism; related information and services
Samantha SchoechThe rumor is that the locals don't want us here--and that may be true--but if you live in a place as beautiful as Bolinas, you have no choice but to share. This tiny beach town at the southeastern tip of the Point Reyes National Seashore doesn't have a mayor, a city hail, or a sign pointing the way, but it does have some breathtaking scenery, a handful of good restaurants, and an air of such laid-back mellowness that it's no wonder surfers, birders, and bohemians have been frolicking here for more than a century.
An ideal day in Bolinas starts with a stroll down the beach (at the end of Wharf Rd.) to collect shells, bird-watch, or check out the many surfers who ride the waves here. On clear days, the western half of San Francisco shimmers in the distance and the Farallon Islands seem dose enough to swim to.
Wander west about 1/4 mile and you can exit the beach at Brighton Avenue, where surfers gather with mugs of morning coffee and scope out the waves. A walk down Brighton offers a look at some of Bolinas's funky Victorians, remnants of the town's days as a summer colony for cavorting San Franciscans in the late 1880s.
Head back up Wharf Road to the Coast Cafe (46 Wharf; 415/868-2298) for a hearty brunch under the hanging surfboards. Every weekend through November, barbecued Tomales Bay oysters are available on the patio.
After brunch, go next door to the Bolinas Museum (1-5 Fri, 12-5 Sat-Sun; 48 Wharf; 415/868-0330 or www.bolinasmuseum.org). Housed in five small rooms clustered around a brick courtyard, the museum is the keeper of the town's history, from Miwok tribal land to summer getaway to counterculture enclave. This is where you will find Bolinas's famous disappearing road sign, which has an arrow pointing the way to town; the county long ago stopped replacing the sign because locals kept tearing it down. The museum also has galleries of contemporary photography and paintings.
But don't spend the whole day in town--some of Bolinas's best assets are the surrounding natural attractions. While surfers hang out at the beach, hikers can drive west on Mesa Road and wind through eucalyptus trees, magnificent views, and windy bluffs to the Paint Reyes National Seashore (415/464-5100). Where the pavement ends, park in the lot at the Palomarin Trailhead. A few trails lead away from here. One of the best is the easy, roughly 3-mile Coast Trail to the beautiful and surprisingly warm Bass Lake. If you'd rather hike up along the ridge for views of Point Reyes National Seashore and the ocean beyond, do an out-and-back trek along the Ridge Trail, which totals 16 miles and leads to Glen Camp. Look for the trailhead on the right side of Mesa, after it turns into a dirt road, before the parking lot.
Because this national park has some of the best bird-watching in the country, stop at the Point Reyes Bird Observatory (999 Mesa Rd.; 415/868-0655) to get a sense of what birds you might see. Late summer is a great time to watch shorebirds and upland birds. At the observatory, you can sign up for guided walks, learn about ecosystem conservation, watch biologists catching and releasing birds, and pick up a park trail map.
If you're reluctant to leave in the evening, head for the Blue Heron Inn and Restaurant (5:30-9 Thu-Mon; 11 Wharf; 415/868-1102), housed in a Victorian home with lovely gardens in the heart of downtown. The changing menu features local produce, meat, and fish. Even some of the wine is local: try Bolinas winemaker Sean Thackrey's Pleiades Syrali blend, made less than a mile up the road. Like most Bolinas residents, Thackrey eschews tradition in favor of doing things his own way--but the results are delicious.
Finish the day with drinks at Smiley's Schooner Saloon and Hotel (41 Wharf; 415/868-1311), which has live music on weekends. Established in 1851, Smiley's is still going strong after more than a century of being the rambunctious heart of this otherwise quiet, concealed town.
RELATED ARTICLE: How to find it
WHERE: Bolinas is about 30 miles north of San Francisco. Take State 1 north past Stinson Beach and around the Bolinas Lagoon. Just before the highway starts to climb, turn left on Olema-Bolinas Rd. (look carefully; the street sign is often missing) and follow it about 2 miles to downtown.
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