
Talk About Travel; Trip Tips and Deals
Byline: The Flight Crew
The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.
Joining the Flight Crew today is Margi Erway of STA Travel, who will field questions and comments about student travel.
We know you have a choice in online travel forums, and speaking for theentire Flight Crew, we want to thank you for flying with us.
You may submit a question before or during the show.
You may also browse an archive of previous live travel discussions.
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Gary Lee: Gary Lee, longtime travel section staff writer, at your service here. We hope that the kick-off of spring is beginning to stir your travel karmas. I am just back from Paris, which was as thrilling as always. We have some folks away but still enough flight crew members to constitute a quorum. Our gang includes: KC Summers, Travel section editor; Carol Sotilli, deals maven and staff writer; Andrea Sachs, staff writer; Anne Mcdonough, section researcher. As guest flight crew member today we have Margi Erway, just back from a jungle adventure in wonderful Costa Rica. Margi has been sending young travelers and students on trips with STA travel since 2001. She just sent a group on a spring break tour through several western Europe countries. So, her deep well of knowledge on destinations of interest to a younger generation of travelers is here to be tapped.
Today I was wondering about tipping. Anyone have any favorite personal anecdotes about having tipped too much, too little, or not known what to tip, or getting something special for tipping or anything else to do with tipping? The clickster our there with the absolute best wins a special prize: The Fodor's Guide to the Da Vinci code along with the DaVinci code travel journal, all based on Dan Brown's wildly popular tome.
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Arlington, Va.: Hi Crew! Quick question: I'm headed to Kansas City in May for two days for work. I've never been, and I don't know anyone who has. Anyone have any recommendations on things to do in my off time? Thanks!
Anne McDonough: I've also never been (maybe we should form a club) but we've written about KC and it sounds like a jazzy kinda place. Link coming right up.
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Belleville, Ill: To Andrea Sachs, I saw that several readers correctly noted the restrictions to use of rental cars, but the penalty associated with violating them wasn't given. A year or two ago there was a discussion on one of the other online travel sites which described a party who was "legally" charged around $2,000 more than the quoted rental charge because he went out of state (California to Nevada). In that particular case the car rental agency, although part of a national chain, was a privately owned franchise--so the national company had no influence on refunding the charges. With respect to the original question posted by your reader. Two years ago I rented a car from Enterprise at the Ceasars Casino in Lake Tahoe, drove to both Carson City and Virginia City, and when departing for my home dropped the car in Reno--no problem and no extra charges. (P.S. This area Reno-Tahoe-and side trips is a tremendous vacation area, and would be worthy of an article.)Best regards,Frank Batha
Andrea Sachs: Great to know (the rental info and the trip tip). I think again, like everything in the travel world, there are no absolutes. Best to ask upfront, before you hand over your credit card, then shop around for a firm that lets you drive outside the lines.
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Honeymoon in Croatia?: Hi Crew!
My fiance and I are planning our honeymoon to Croatia this August. We will be coming from southern Germany and plan to stay 1 week in Hvar in the Dalmatian Islands, but have a few days before and after Hvar to travel.
What's a must see? We're looking for romantic and low-key sites (difficult in August I know).
Thanks!
KC Summers: First of all, congrats, and second, what a great place to spend your honeymoon! You will love it. You really can't go to Croatia without spending at least a couple of days in Dubrovnik, so that would be my first recommendation. It's wonderful, romantic, beautiful, evocative, historic. Lots of beautiful people like to congregate there in August, unfortunately, but you knew that. Also, if you like Hvar and want more beautiful island scenery, try the island of Korcula. It's like a mini-Dubrovnik, with old city walls and marble paved streets. Just exquisite.
Another Croatian must-do is Plitvice National Park. I didn't make it there but it's supposed to be amazing, with lakes connected by waterfalls. Sounds romantic to me, and possibly less crowded than the coast.
If you like cities, you might try a day or two in Zagreb, the capital, which I really liked -- it's a real underrated city and very vibrant. And finally Split is a must-do, with the amazing Diocletian's Palace -- it's like the Grand Canyon of Roman ruins. Pictures don't do it justice, you just have to see it.
Hope these ideas help. Have a great honeymoon!
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Alexandria, Va: I am a student at college. Is the International Student Id card really worth the $22?
Margi Erway: The ISIC is THE discount card for students! As a member, you have access to more than 30,000 exclusive discounts worldwide. The best feature is the STA Travel student discounted domestic and international airfare and Eurostar tickets! The ISIC also includes travel insurance, ISIConnect (one stop communications center and saving for long-distance and international calls), museum entry fees, theaters, and accommodation. I even saved 10percent at a clothing store in London. The ISIC is available for students age 12 and up enrolled in an accredited institution and working towards a degree/diploma. There is also the ITIC for teachers and GO25 for youths 25 or younger. Any STA Travel branch will have them.
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Summer Get-A-Way, Md: Please help resolve a family debate. Our family of four is planning a get-a-way to Oregon in August. Our dates to fly are flexible. My gut says that prices are only going to rise so buy now. The hubby thinks we'll find a deal if we wait a bit. So, what do you travel gurus say? Buy now or keep a watch out for any deals?
And, since we really are flexible on dates, are there typically "cheaper days" to fly?
Thanks!
Carol Sottili: I'd wait unless the fare is in the $300 range. Southwest hasn't even come out with fares for that time period yet - it's only sellig tickets thorough Aug. 3, and they often lower the bar with their fares. If you're flexible with dates, airport, airline and nonstop vs. connecting, you can afford to wait. Cheapest days to travel are Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Saturdays.
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Adams Morgan, Washington, D.C.: re: tipping. I was in Prague a couple weeks ago, and everyplace we went, when we asked for the check, they would bring it, and tell us the tip wasn't included. Then, when we would hand them our cash, they would take their tip out of our change without asking us about it. Which was fine, because every time, they took a tip ranging from 3-5%, when I would have left them a 20% tip.
Gary Lee: Thanks for that, fellow Adams Morgan resident... so you didn't insist that they should get over modesty and help themselves to the additional 15 percent?
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Arlington, Va: re: tipping I think I may have shared this story once before. I was in Cologne, Germany with my gay soccer team in 2000 and we had dinner together as a big group at this nice little Italian restaurant. We tend to tip well anyway, but the waiter was cute so I think he ended up getting an even bigger tip as a result. He looked a bit confused by the size of the tip...probably something like 40 percent and seemed rather embarrassed by it. So, he brought a bottle of some sort of after dinner liquer for us to all share together... including him. It was great fun. We were all having a great time and he certainly joined in the fun. It certainly made the place lively.
Gary Lee: Much thanks for that story. It will put you in the running for the prize. Any by the way, i hope you agree with me that Cologne is one of Europe's more interesting undersung cities...
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Maui, Hawaii: Our student will be traveling in Europe this June and July. Is
Eurofly beforehand a better deal than using the cheaper
carriers like Ryanair once she is over there? mahalo, jule
Margi Erway: Flying around Europe is great if you are trying to cover large area in a short amount of time but be careful...many discounted airlines fly into airports located pretty far outside the city area. So the cheap ticket may have a large rail or taxi cost once you land. But either websites seem fine. The train system in Europe is great to use as well.
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Washington, DC: My husband and I are trying to plan a belated honeymoon for our first anniversary this August. We have a budget of $3500 and hopes of a 11-13 day trip, and had hoped to go to the Mediterranean but have been told that would be impossible with that budget. So, we're exploring other options but aren't sure what will be possible. Unfortunately because of job schedules we must go in August, but we're pretty open otherwise. Do you have any suggestions? Our dream trips include lots of museums or old ruins, good food and wine, and some active outdoor activities (not really lying on a beach). For locations, we're pretty much thinking either Europe or South America. Thanks very much for your help!
Carol Sottili: I'm writing a honeymoon story now, and I just interviewed a couple who went to Brazil for their honeymoon. They spent about $2,500 more than you have budgeted, but they stayed for a week at a luxury beach resort before going on to visit Recife, Rio, etc. They absolutely loved Brazil. It's unfortunate that you have to go in August because airfares to Europe are so high then. Have you considered signing on to a cheap package deal (not the escorted type - an independent tour)? Try www.gotoday.com, www.gate1travel.com or www.fittours.com.
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Washington, D.C.: Gary! I'm going to Paris in a mere 48 hours. Tell me the answer to this all-important question: where should I buy my cheese?
Gary Lee: It depends on how picky you are. My neighborhood there is Montparnasse, so I buy mine from the open market held every Wednesday and Saturday morning in front of the Montparnasse cemetery or in the nearby store called Inno. Both stores have great variety.
Anyone out there have good suggestions on cheese buying in Paris?
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Columbus, Ohio: I am to travel with my husband to Europe on May 3rd for 18 days. I have purchased air tickets only with the travel agent, but created an itinerary myself. Would you please advice what type of insurance I should buy? Cruise portion of this trip is $1200 per person. Love your chats!!!!
Carol Sottili: Go to www.insuremytrip.com and compare policies there. I usually go with Travel Guard for my independent trips.
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Alexandria, Va: My boyfriend and I are headed to Morocco the first week in May. We're flying into Casablanca and planning on going to Marrakech for part of our 7 day trip. We've heard the Fes is also a must see but it seems difficult to combine the two cities on such a short trip. What do you think? Do you have any other must see locales? Also, do you have recommendations for Sahara excursion organizers out of Marrakech? Thanks so much - I love these chats!
Andrea Sachs: Definitely see Fes; I loved wandering aimlessly around its crazy medina and taking in all of the shops, people, snatchs of life. In fact, I would have spent more time there than in Marrakech, which is bigger, louder and freakier (those poor monkeys with diapers; just awful). And while the drives are long, you will see incredible landscape, from mountains to forests of almond trees. I also recommend visiting the Sahara (it is the Sahara, for sand's sake). Though the sunset camel tour is touristy, it was a blast to chat with the Berber boys, sled down the dunes and walk under the stars surrounded only by sand.
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Washington, D.C.: Help! I have a 10 hour layover in London (never been) and want to see as much as I can. What's the best itinerary starting and ending at Heathrow? Thanks!
Anne McDonough: The best layover I ever had was just two years ago on an 8-hour layover from Heathrow: Checked my bag at the left luggage right outside of the terminal, splurged for the Heathrow Express right into Paddington (it takes just 15 minutes, whereas the tube can take a long, long time; www.heathrowexpress.com), hopped on the tube right there and headed to Harrods at Knightsbridge for to graze for snacks to bring on the next flight. Then headed to Brown's for afternoon tea (tea is served daily 3-6 p.m.; www.brownshotel.com/location.html). Then walked around--that's a great neighborhood--and eventually hopped back on the Express to Heathrow. If it's open the day you land, definitely go to the National Gallery (free, www.nationalgallery.org.uk), right in Trafalgar Square, which should be on your intinerary. Their site has a great map that shows the other attractions within walking distance of the museum. Rest your feet with a pint at a pub in the neighborhood and then head back to the airport. Keep in mind that security can throw a real wrench in your plans; make sure to give yourself enough time back at the airport.
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Bowie, Md: My parents will be making their first trip to Europe this spring, a group tour to Italy. They'll be in Rome for 2 days (one scheduled, one on their own), and they're concerned with some things they've heard about rampant pickpockets and other thieves in the city. Is it really a big problem in Rome, and what suggestions could you give them to keep themselves and their money safe?
KC Summers: Pickpocketing is a problem in most big cities, Rome included. (We hear the most complaints about Madrid and other Spanish cities, but Rome's right up there.) So your parents should take the same basic precautions they'd take in New York or D.C. or any big city: Don't carry big wads of cash, don't wear flashy jewelry, especially gold chains (there have been reports of thieves ripping chains off, literally, from around peoples' necks), don't dangle your purse loosely from your shoulder (thieves have been known to roar by on a motorscooter and grab them). Leave passports, jewelry and cash in your hotel safe. Take care in subway and train stations especially. If you are surrounded by groups of clamoring urchins, you're likely being set up, so take care.
Also, don't stand around on street corners reading maps, don't dangle cameras and guidebooks too flagrantly -- in other words, try not to look like tourists, who are notoriously easy marks for thieves.
That all sounds scary but it's not meant to be -- it's just taking basic precautions.
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Silver Spring, Md: Hi Mr. Lee,
Just back from Paris? Did the demonstrations affect your travel at all? I'm going in August with my family. It seems as if the protests are directed towards the French government and as such, visitiors should be safe, but wary as in any big city. Is that your impression as well?
Gary Lee: The demos did not affect my travels at all. I asked a lot of Americans I met and all agreed that they were hardly noticeable. Anyway -- this just in -- it looks like the labor law that provoked the protests is being withdrawn so the demos may very well cease pretty soon, too.
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washingtonpost.com: In K.C., the Vine's Second Act , (Dec. 12, 2004)
Anne McDonough: For the Kansas City traveler...thanks, Kim!
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Austin, Tex: Tipping:Watch out in South Beach and Miami in FL. Most establishments will add 18 or 20% service charge automatically to your check, and it's not always clearly labeled, either. Make sure you don't tip 20% more, like I did once.
Gary Lee: Ouch! Thanks for that nonmonetary tip....
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College Park, Md.: Please, oh, please help me. I made reservations at a local Holiday Inn for a week long stay in May for my mother and my niece. Dumb me booked the "advance purchase" rate which is nonrefundable (only for $7/day savings over a rate with a more accommodating refund policy) and the reservation has already been billed and paid via a credit card.
On Saturday night my niece was in a major car accident and suffered severe head injuries and is going to be in a critical care unit until who knows when. Is there ANY way I can get their $1000 back? I plan on going in person to talk to the hotel's manager and hopefully that person will be understanding. If they aren't, do you have any advice on how to handle this situation?
Carol Sottili: If the manager won't or can't help, I'd probably try dealing with corporate headquarters. The phone number there is 770-604-2000 - I'd ask if they have a customer relations department.
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Arlington, Va.: Thanks for the chats; I've learned a lot of stuff. I'm considering a 4-night trip to Iceland later this year. Am I better off with a package, like from Icelandair, or to do air/hotel separately?
Andrea Sachs: Often packages are cheaper, since the company is getting breaks on airfares and hotels, while you are spending a lot more for the air and hotels seperately. Icelandair has especially good package that range from basic to activity-heavy. In fact, right now, they have a deal with a free Laugar Spa add-on. In addition, Iceland is one of the more expensive destinations in Europe, so what you save on hotels, you can splurge on hot springs, sturgeon and Bjork records.
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Los Angeles, Calif.: A group of friends and I are graduating in May, and want to travel to Costa Rica over the summer. Margi, what do you recommend, and do you think we should book places to stay and activities in advance?
Thanks!
Margi Erway: Costa Rica, the people, activities, and food were great! But the roads in between the beach towns and other areas of interest are still rough. It really does help to book things in advance if it is your first time there or a short trip. I recommend GAP or Tucan adventures. Manuel Antonio is a fun yet small beach town and entrance to the National Park and Tamarindo is a popular beach town but is developing fast. Be sure to go on the zip-lines in the rainforest near Monteverde, hike Volcano Arenal or raft the rapids in La Fortuna. For longer journeys start off with a short organized backpacking company then branch off on your own. Any STA Travel branch can hook you up!
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For the Morocco Traveler: I spent a week in Marrakesh a few years ago and absolutely loved it, but I did not made it to Fez. We did an overnight trip to Essaouira on the Atlantic coast, which I would HIGHLY recommend. It was absolutely beautiful there and well worth the 3 hour trip from Marrakesh. We also did some of our best bargain shopping there. Hope you enjoy Morocco!
Andrea Sachs: We spent our last day in Essauria and I agree: It was delightful. Made it even harder to get back on the plane!
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Washington, D.C.: Hi Flight Crew,
If you had 2 weeks to travel in August and wanted to go to South or Central America, where would you go and why? We are two 24 year old women, if that helps. Thanks!
Gary Lee: I am a super big fan of Peru: the indigenous culture there is fantastic and the ruins, starting with Maccu Piccu, really have to been seen and the food is quite wonderful, too. So that would be my first choice.
After that, if you're really into nature, with Chile you could combine Patagonia with the Atacama desert.
If money is an issue, I would look at Guatamala or Mexico, two truly remarkable destinations.
Adios!
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Washington, DC: Hey Flight Crew! Have any of you traveled in China's
Yunan province? How much of a problem is the language
barrier? And is it a place that is fun to travel as a
backpacker? Thanks!
Anne McDonough: I loved traveling in Yunnan, and I did it as a backpacker. It's one of the areas of China that really is set up for the backpacker circuit, so you'll find guesthouses instead of just middling hotels that offer shared rooms. I speak Mandarin, but without it you'll be fine--you'll be doing lots of pantomiming and guesswork, but again, it's on the tourist circuit so they'll be plenty of folks in the same boat as you, and often your hosts will speak English. Dali, Lijiang, Kunming: You'll definitely run into English speakers there. One thing: I'd skip the Stone Forest if it's on your list. Hanging out in the countryside is much more interesting.
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For KC-bound: I used to live near KC. There are actually 2 KCs-- the Missouri one and Kansas one-- they're together and the whole area is one big metro area.
Union Station has been restored and there's a very interesting museum there where you can learn about US as well as local history. The jazz district around Vine is interesting to visit. Nelson-Atkins art museum is nice. You can also go to the Hallmark Visitor's Center (Hallmark greetings cards come from KC) and take a tour-- I remember going as a kid and using a machine to make gift bows. The Plaza is a nice outdoor shopping area that is one of the oldest shopping areas in the U.S. and it's Spanish-styled to look like Seville, Spain. Definitely get some barbecue-- I like KC Masterpiece myself (location on the Plaza and in suburban Johnson County.) And if you're into sports, check out the KC Royals baseball team.
Have fun!
Anne McDonough: Some more (really good) tips for the Kansas City bound. Thanks for these!
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San Francisco, Calif.: Re tipping: Last February, I went with my mom to New Orleans (and we're both so glad we went then). I generally tip housekeeping about $5 a day, but on the first day I only had a ten, so we left that the first day, a five the second day, and nothing on the third day (the day we checked out). We noticed that after housekeeping got the first two tips, we got LOTS of little soaps and bottles left for us in the bathroom. Then, on the third day, we left the room to go get breakfast before packing up to check out, and when we came back, there was a hotel robe on the bed, all wrapped up in plastic, with a note on it saying "Thanks from housekeeping!" It totally warmed our hearts (and it's a great robe)!
Gary Lee: Great story, thanks. And did you leave a tip for the robe?
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Northern Virginia: A comment on the "Boys go to Vegas" piece-- it was nicely written and the young man can now say he's been published in the Post. But so what? A few decent guys have a mildly naughty time in Vegas. This is worthy of being the Travel section's main feature? If the section was twice the size, there would be a place for this type of piece, but as it is, what a waste of space.
KC Summers: Sorry you didn't like the piece, Nova -- we thought it was a nice window into an increasingly popular spring break destination. Vegas is really making inroads into the traditional beach hot spots with college kids, so when the National Lampoon folks started offering spring break tours, that clinched it -- we had to go along. We thought the piece was pretty entertaining -- any other reactions out there?
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Washington, D.C.: When you were in Paris, how far in advance did you get to the airport for your flight? I have a 7:15am flight from Paris to Madrid in the middle of the trip, as well as a 1pm flight from Paris back here to DC. Could use some advice on how much cushion I need to plan for customs etc. Thanks!
Gary Lee: I got to deGaulle two hours early, which gave me enough time to spend 30 minutes looking at all the stuff I was not going to buy in the duty free stores.
I would strongly discourage you from cutting it much closer than an hour and a half before the flight.
The customs part can be really slow.
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Gaithersburg, Md: In a little less than 4 weeks I'll be flying to Italy to visit my father's family, whom I've never met. The only thing; they all live in Calabria, near Lamezia-Terme. I'll have a car and a lot of time, what's fun to do down there? The internet is being surprisingly uncooperative in helping.
Carol Sottili: If I am recalling correctly, the beaches in that area are quite beautiful. It also has its fair share of archaeological ruins and museums. There's also a cathedral where Isabel of Aragon is buried. And thermal spas at Sambiase. My guess, however, is that your relatives will keep you busy, and if they're anything like my Sicilian relatives, you won't have much time alone. Sicily, by the way, is not far from there, and you can take the ferry over.
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Philadelphia, Pa: re: tipping. The most difficult was in Stockholm, Sweden. Everwhere we have gone in Europe, there has been some general rule that was universal in all the books, etc. But, in Stockholm, there seemed to be no general rule (some books said it wasn't included, some said it was absolutely included). When my girlfriend and arrived and went to a local restaurant the first night, we didn't know if there was a service charge included. Our swedish being non existant, we asked and no one seemed to understand what a tip was. Finally, someone seemed to grasp the basic concept and said it wasn't included. We left some extra money on the table for the server, and she ran after us and gave us the extra money back. Needless to say, I still have no idea if you should tip in Stockholm.
Gary Lee: Having spent some time in Stockholm, I know what you mean. I think Swedes in general are very very modest about money but I still don't know what's standard in tipping. When I find out I'll let you know. In the meantime, much thanks for bringing it up.
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Washington, DC: I am going on a tour to China in a few weeks (Beijing, Xian and Shanghai). Hotel and transportation are taken care of so I just need to think about spending money. Can I rely upon ATM's in those cities or is this a trip to get some travelers checks to exchange for Chinese yuan over there? A friend told me she heard some FBI agents were in Beijing for work and their credit card numbers were lifted.
Anne McDonough: In Beijing and Shanghai you'll have absolutely no problem whatsoever with just ATMs. Xi'an has fewer of them. I'd bring a few travelers cheques with you--it's the one place I do bring them--and this one's important: Do not use Bank of Beijing ATMS; most are not set up for foreign cards. On my last trip I was having a pre-coffee moment and the machine ate my card. I got it back, but that was after about an hour of crying, chatting with the bank folk and literally opening the machine up. Most Bank of China and HSBC, etc., are totally fine for foreign cards, and if you have any hesitation ask your tour leader or concierge.
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RE: College Park: First of all, I am very sorry about your niece. A tip, get some medical documentation about your niece's status. Last year I had a completly non-refundable trip planned and was hospitalized with a severe lung infection. I talked to the companies (air & hotel) and sent them a letter from my doctor and tehy refunded my entire trip.
Good luck and Get well soon to your niece.
Carol Sottili: Yes, I should have said all that. Thanks!
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Washington, DC: Honeymoon recommendations ... for the couple on a limited budget, why not try the caribbean? Some may think its overdone, but you can travel to some of the less visited islands (Dominica, Guadeloupe, Antigua) for cheap around that time and have a less-than-typical experience. Or try Belize. Or, if you're worried about hurricanes, try the islands closer to the northern coast of central america (Aruba, curacao, bonaire) and you could also visit venezuela.
Carol Sottili: Good ideas.
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Good News, Bad News: Hi, most excellent travel crew!
I just wanted to report that I have recently returned from 10 days in Andalucia, Spain, and had a wonderful time. The White Hill towns especially are beautiful, relaxing, and not to be missed!
Unfortunately, we flew Air France to get to Spain and had the most insulting airline customer service that I have ever experienced. For the sake of brevity, I will spare you the details of the story; our key concern was that my husband and I were not given seats next to each other, despite checking in several hours early. We thought we heard the desk attendants discussing that there were no seats together available for Americans -- implying that such seats were available for French passengers. Speechless, we proceeded to the gate, where we asked (in French, without showing our passports) whether we could be seated next to each other. Sure enough, we were seated next to each other in the very same row where I had already been seated! We found this beyond rude, and I wonder if this is a one-off experience or a regular policy for national air carriers?
KC Summers: That's fascinating, and not a regular policy as far as I know. I have to tell you that lots of people aren't getting their seat assignments these days-- it's getting to be more and more of a crapshoot, as airlines are beginning to charge for prime seats, and not giving seat assignments in advance (and God help you if it's a codeshare). But this is the first I've heard of discriminating against nationalities. Could you email me at summersk@washpost.com, with details? We'll look into it for the Coming & Going column.
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Los Angeles, Calif.: Thanks for the advice on Costa Rica. Does STA Travel have branches in Los Angeles too?
Margi Erway: Check out www.statravel.com. We have 89 branches in North America, a handful in LA, and a 24hr Call Center.
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Alexandria, Va: The piece on the spring break in Vegas was nicely written, but more of a BLOG than a major newspaper story. I have written more detailed and descriptive trip reports on a message board. If this is what the Post wants to do, then they should just make it a free-for-all, and have readers submit trip reports, and hold a spot for a weekly winner.
KC Summers: With all due respect, I'm sure your "trip reports" were just fascinating, but you have to be able to write well to be published in the Travel section.
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Washington, DC: Dear Flight Crew,
For our anniversary my husband and I want to have a quiet weekend away. We are debating between the Inn at Easton and the Inn at Perry Cabin. Cost is not so much of a factor. If we stay at Perry Cabin we would probably still eat at the Inn at Easton since Tom says it is so good. I really want the room itself to be very nice because if the weather is bad we would like to be able to watch a DVD and stay inside and be very confortable. Also - is Easton or St. Michaels a nicer town?
KC Summers: Wash, you've picked two great destinations. You really can't go wrong with either one, but I vote for St. Michael's and the Inn at Perry Cabin. The town itself is absolutely charming, great for strolling, with lots of shops and galleries. And the countryside is great for bicyling -- very flat. The rooms and public areas of the inn are gorgeous, complete with sloping floors, antiques and even a little den with a secret door disguised as a bookshelf. My favorite thing there was to just sit out on the lawn, reading in an Adirondack chair, watching the water -- just heaven.
My colleague Mr. Lee prefers Easton, however, so let's let him have his say...
Gary Lee: I perfer Easton because : it's more earthy 2) there is a great theater there which you should go to if there is something on and 3) Tom is right, the restaurant there is fantastic and the folks and the Inn at Easton really go way out of their way for your comfort...
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Washington, DC: One thing about tipping in Central Europe is that the population is beginning to resent Americans for giving big tips, then the locals get worse service because they can't bring themselves to tip more (whereas I couldn't bring myself to tip less than 10 percent).
On to my question: I failed to get Madonna tickets in NYC so am going to Hartford. Has anyone been? Is there anything worth doing? Better to take train or fly? Thanks for a great chat!
Andrea Sachs: Madonna in Hartford; I love it! I am from Western Mass. and saw my first concert in Hartford--a shout out to Simon and the Taylor boys (except the one with long hair, never thought he was too cute).
Hartford is no Madison Square Garden, but there are couple of attractions: the Harriet Beecher Stowe Center, Mark Twain House, Wadsworth Museum, Hartford Stage (great regional theater).
If you have car, Foxwoods casino has a great museum (and gambling of course). Also, nearby New Haven has loads of attractions, especially around Yale's campus.
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Re: tipping: I was traveling to Interlaken, Switz. via then train with my then-boyfriend (now husband). There are two stations in InterlakenI disembarked at the first, thinking I'd have time to figure out if we were at the right one. I didn't, and we got separated. I was 23 and scared, since it was my first time abroad. I tearily got some Swiss money and hailed a cab, thinking I'd meet my boyfriend at the hotel. My cabbie, Max, seeing my tears felt terrible, but a language barrier prevented me from explaining. I ended up giving him a huge tip, liked 100%, since I was upset and couldn't think straight to calculate.
When I couldn't find my boyfriend at the hotel, I set out back to the train station to see if he went back there. It took a while to hail a cab, but finally one came, and it was Max. Max took me back to the station and (because he was a sweetie and of the huge tip) agreed to wait as long as I needed him to look for my boyfriend. Happily, found him. Max was happy for us, and got another nice (although not quite 100%) tip for his help.
Gary Lee: Hey, thanks for your story and let's say a thanks to the world for folks like Max...
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Timonium, Md: Flight Crew:Re: TippingMany years ago in the 70s when I was an inexperienced business traveler, I accompanied my boss to New York. As we entered a Wall Street deli, a young guy ran past us out the door followed closely by an irate waitress who threw a hand-full of change at the guy shouting, "#%&-! If you can't afford a bigger tip than this, don't come in here!!!" Talk about a fast lesson on tipping.
Regards,Sam
Gary Lee: Well, Sam sounds like you were baptized by fire. I hope it helped you in other places.
Thanks for the story.
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re: south american travel: Like Gary said, go to Peru. We went last summer and it was truly wonderful. Keep in mind it won't be beach weather in August: it's their winter. That said, the ruins are incredible and beautiful. Stay in the Miraflores neighborhood of Lima, which is so modernized it even has a skate park; set aside at least several days in Cuzco, don't just rush to Machu Picchu; and if you want one more destination, consider Trujillo, which is north, on the coast, and has its own ruins. Viaje!
Gary Lee: Thanks>..I am partial to Arequipa, a great colonial city with some of the best food in Peru..
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Del Ray, Va: I can never find a decent fare to Birmingham, Al from DCA - any suggestions for an under-$275 fare? Does Amtrak take me there? I have to buy 4 tickets now and at $300+ per ticket it's almost worth the 12 hour drive !
Carol Sottili: I just found a $233 round-trip fare on Continental and Northwest out of Reagan National. Maybe you're trying to travel on peak times, or you're not staying over a Saturday night? Amtrak takes 18 hours to get there.
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Washington DC: I was in Paris for almost two weeks on business a few years ago, and there was a pretty nice cafe just across from my hotel. I had breakfast in the cafe most mornings, and on occasion, lunch and dinner too. The food was on the upper end of average-traditional, and their sidewalk seating was better than most.I tipped like an American, 15-20 percent. Not because I didn't know better, but because I was on an expense account and feeling generous. After my first couple meals there, the staff became even friendlier. They were pretty nice to start with, but they got downright warm. I got big smiles and a big "Bonjour Mademoiselle!" every day, even when I just passed in front of the cafe on my way out of the hotel. So I had a meeting with some bigwig, and met him at his office. Turned out, he wanted to include another colleague, whose office was a few block away. Bigwig and I walked past the cafe on the way, and the waiters standing at the door gave me the usual effusive greeting. Bigwig had been pretty brusque with me up to that point, but my ability to charm foreign waiters seemed to make a big impression on him. We got the contract.
Gary Lee: Yes!
We love that story. I hope you treated yourself and the waiters at the cafe to a round of something after getting the contract.
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Tipping ain't what is used to be...: Last week, my aunt took my 95 year old great-grandmother out to eat lunch. When the check came (totaling about $30), Grandma said she would cover the tip. She put $2 on the table and announced she was ready to go. My aunt asked if she that was all she planned to tip, to which Grandma responded by giving her $10 for gas money. My aunt refused the money and tried to coax the nonagenarian to leave it as a tip, but Grandma refused. So they proceeded to leave the restaurant but just as they approached the exit, my aunt had to pull the old 'I-left-my-keys-at-the-table' bit. She ran back and dropped the $10 on the table without Grandma suspecting a thing.
Gary Lee: Thanks for the story. It sounds like your grandma and mine have the same tipping mentality. Maybe all grandmas do.
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Arlington, Va.: Wanted to post about a great experience in the midst of a cancelled vacation. Bought tickets to go to Paris months ago that ended up being in the middle of all of those riots. I have actually been there in the midst of such and had no intention of repeating the experience! So we called Continental and while we didn't get (or ask for, really) a refund, we did get out of paying the $200 change fee/ticket. They were very understanding and now we have tickets to go back any time this year.
KC Summers: Good for you, Arl. Moral: It never hurts to ask, and if you don't get the answer you want, ask to speak to a supervisor and explain your situation. We've found most airlines to be extremely lenient in rescheduling trips without penalty when there's some sort of major crisis.
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Washington, DC: I was in a hammam (steambath) in Istanbul in l998 and having been in the steam room and been rubbed and then covered in towels and wooden sandals, i was sent upstairs for a "rest" when someone entered and began rubbing everything, and he asked for a tip saying the entire contents of my wallet would be good enough, I offered a million lira, probably $5 then and he gave it back to me. I ran for the door and into the street just in time to see another Turk pulling up his pants in the alley. Once, a five year old reached into my pocket, but I grabbed his hand before his mother did.
Gary Lee: Nice color there, DC. This vignette puts you in the running for the prize.
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Alexandria, Va - for family reunion guy from last week: Last week someone asked about renting a house or two for a family reunion to be held here in DC rather than going to hotels. I just read the chat after 3PM so couldn't answer last week. But our family had a reunion and we rented two of the cottages at Algonquin park out in Sterling. They are not well known and are just wonderful. They sit right on the bank of the Potomac and have decks and BBQs and are quite comfy and quiet. Here is a URL in case he/she is reading today. http://www.nvrpa.org/cottages.html
Gary Lee: Oh, thanks for that advice.
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Arlington, Va. Tipper: Honeymooning in French Polynesia, my husband and I were "adopted" by the bartender at the swim-up bar. While tipping wasn't required at our resort, we tipped extremely generously, about 35% over the course of our stay, and it paid off - he was worth every penny! He never minded our sitting on the stools idling away the afternoons and watching the sun sink in the water over our Hinanos, kept us in good booze with excellent frozen tropical concoctions, and made sure we had prime seats for our dinner reservations so we could see the last colors fade and the stars and full moon light up the evening sky.
Gary Lee: Nice story. It could win you the prize...
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Re: Honeymoon in Croatia: I agree with almost everything KC said about Croatia, except for spending "at least a couple of days in Dubrovnik." I'd say at MOST a couple of days. We were there for 3 nights and quickly ran out of things to see, but couldn't leave because many ferry routes only go every two or three days. It's a beautiful old city, but the walled section is very small, and the area outside the walls is not particularly interesting. There are beaches, but they are much more crowded than the ones on the islands. So definitely go there (and Split), but for the relaxing longer stretches, spend your time on Korcula nd Hvar.
KC Summers: I agree, I think a couple of days is about right. Though I could have easily spent a week people-watching in the town square, nursing a coffee or glass of wine. In fact that may be my favorite thing to do whatever city I'm in! I would definitely skip the beaches there in favor of the islands. In fact, I would even skip the island beaches (I'm more of a sandy beach person) and concentrate on the cafes and courtyards.
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Alexandria, Va: When I was younger, my family and I took my grandma out for her birthday at a fancy Turkish restaurant in the city. The service was iffy so my dad left a 10% tip. We had just walked out of the restaurant when the very angry waiter/manager runs after us and says we've tipped TOO LITTLE! My dad tried to reason with the manager, explaining about the service. Finally after much shouting(the manager was scary!), attracting a crowded and my grandma getting very upset, my dad handed over 5% more. Needless to say, we never went there again!
Gary Lee: Nice story, much thanks.
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Pittsburgh, Pa: We will be in D.C. the weekend of Aug 11th for my parent's 50th wedding anniversary dinner (on the 12th). During the day of the 12th, we would like to take our 4 year old daughter to see a museum or two on the mall. I also hear that there is a Children's Museum there. Any suggestions? I'm sure any museum will be crowded on a Saturday, so I'm not really concerned about that. I don't think she would be interested in the Air and Space Museum, though.
Andrea Sachs: The Children's Museum won't be open until 20009; however, there are oodles of other choices: the National Zoo; the Natural History Museum (lots of giant animals that don't bite), plus an Imax theater; the acquarium; the giant sculpture at Haine's Point (plus makes for a nice walk along the Potomac); a paddle boat ride on the Potomac; a ride on a trolley. Many of the Smithsonian museums also have children's programs, including arts and crafts. See www.si.edu/events for a list. Also check the offerings of Children's Concierge, which organizes kiddie adventures in D.C. (www.childrensconcierge.com).
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Chevy Chase, Md: Hi Flight Crew!
Some time ago I promised a dear niece a week long trip for her graduation. I gave three options, taking the train through England, sightseeing in Venice, or touring the Pacific Northwest (Seattle, Vancouver, and Victoria). While she'll be ready to go this fall, my budget isn't what it once was, which of the three would be cheapest for a 20something and her 40something Aunt? We were thinking of going in 'shoulder season', perhaps early October.
Carol Sottili: The train through England would probably be the cheapest way to go if you're planning on an October trip when airfares will be more reasonable. Virgin Trains (www.virgintrains.co.uk) has some cheap point-to-point tickets, or you can always go with a BritRail pass (www.britrail.com).
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No tip....: When I was 15 my parent took my younger brother and I on our first cruise. This was 20 years ago, before the days of the super-luxury boats, and being on a budget, we were in a lower level cabin with a small porthole.
My parents spent the week gambling in the casino, and found themselves almost cashless at the end of the trip. Needless to say, they did not have the "suggested" amount to leave at the end of the cruise for the cabin person. I still remember the person yelling after us down the hall about our "insufficient" tip!
Gary Lee: Those are the memories that stay with you forever. Thanks for sharing it.
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RE: Vegas article: I agree with the NoVa poster. Vegas article was a very nice clip for the author, but not much for the reader. Thought the Bolzano piece was quite good. It seems to me that some of the most useful things for readers are somewhat obscure places in Western Europe. Just my 2 cents.
KC Summers: Thanks for the feedback -- and glad you liked the Bolzano piece. I loved it too. In yesterday's issue, as we do every week, we tried to provide something for everyone. You wouldn't want an entire section about obscure places in Western Europe, would you? We do have our fair share of Europhiles, but some folks would just rather go to Vegas...
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Pittsburgh, Pa: On a trip to Havana, Cuba in early 2001 (as part of a cultural tourism package), I was amazed that there was no toilet paper in the airport restroom stalls. Rather an attendant sat outside the stalls and charged 5-cents for a single panel of t.p. Not knowing how many 'panels' I might need in advance, I gave the gentleman a U.S. one-dollar bill - and was happy to receive what was left on his roll of paper (about a quarter-roll) in return. Ok, maybe that's not the best tip story out there, but it was VERY important to me at the time!
Gary Lee: having lived in Russia for a few years, I know what you mean..
Thanks.
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Burke, Va: Has anyone ever been to "Thunder Over Louisville?" I've heard about it, and it sounds like quite an amazing display. It's coming up next weekend. Is it too late to get hotel nearby for a long weekend drive out there?
Andrea Sachs: We here have not, but anyone who has: Please enlighten us!
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Old Town Alexandria, Va.: Please, tell me it's possible to get into San Fran from SFO (and back, of course) in a four hour layover. I know it would be for a very short time but then we're on our way to China and I want to get some fresh air, maybe a quick lunch, and have someplace to walk around beside the airport.Do I have your permission? Do you have tips?
Thanks!
Anne McDonough: Permission from me denied, I'm afraid. It's an international flight, so you'd have to be back at the airport at least 2.5, ideally more hours before your flight takes off so you'd have very, very little time. A cab into San Francisco's downtown would run you about $37 each way. But on the upside there's an exhibit on Five Centuries of Swedish Silver at the airport itself, running through July in the International terminal.
Having said all that...the SFO has this to say about layovers of 4 or more hours: http://www.flysfo.com/guide_nonflash/airportinfo/VisittheCity.htm
So, if your first plane lands exactly on time, go for it. Otherwise, head for the silver.
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spring break article: I don't really get it. Las Vegas just doesn't seem like much of a spring break destination to me. First, it's not consistently warm enough to sit by the pool in early to mid March. And second, most spring breakers aren't old enough to legally get into bars or gamble.
I personally love Vegas now that I've been out of college for 5 years, but I'm glad I went to South Padre for spring break. Beaches full of college kids seem a lot more fun that a hotel full of elderly gamblers...
KC Summers: Yeah, it's an interesting trend, isn't it? You wouldn't expect it to be such a hot spring break destination, but the interest is definitely there. I suppose it's the college SENIOR market they're aiming for... and these kids sure managed to find their own fun.
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UK bound: Hi there. I'm planning a trip to Scotland in late June. Unfortunately, no tickets yet. I realize I will probably be spending a lot, but it'll be worth it. Any idea what I should aim for as far as ticket prices?
Carol Sottili: No sale fares have been announced for June travel to Europe. Aer Lingus had one short-lived sale a few weeks ago, but nothing since then. Depending on how flexible you are, I would wait for a couple more weeks, checking sites such as Travelzoo.com and Independenttraveler.com for sales. Also sign up at Orbitz.com or Kayak.com for their deal alerts. Price right now is hovering at around $900 round trip.
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Ohio: My fiance and I are planning a two-week drving trip in the Great Lakes region, focusing on Mackinaw, the Upper Penisula of Michigan and Pictured Rocks National Seashore and the north shore of Lake Superior, possibly hitting Isle Royale Nat'l Park and the Soo. Do you or any chatters have any suggestions on out-of-the-way places we might want to hit, or dining/lodging options we should consider?
And thanks to you and the producer for doing a great job on these chats! Y'all rawk!
Andrea Sachs: My knowledge stops at Lake Michigan, specifically Lake Shore Drive in Chicago. But if anyone has any tips for the Great Lakes, please shout them out (or maybe just write them down). Thanks.
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Washington, D.C.: Curacao? Any suggestions on non-SCUBA activities? Thank you.
Gary Lee: Three things come to mind: 1) there is an herbalist there who gives wonderful advice on herbal treatments for all your ailments. 2) There is a great musuem dedictaed to slavery in the Caribbean (and elsewhere) in the Kura Hulanda hotel and 3) There is a women who take a small group of folks to the market and takes them back home and teaches them to cook some local specialties. The whole group then has lunch and dinner together.
You can find out about all these things from the tourism office there.
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left luggage at Heathrow: fairly sure it's gone.
you can leave it at Paddington though. more schlepping but at least you can leave it somewhere.
Anne McDonough: If that's true, it's a shame; it was very helpful back in 2004! The airport's official site does say that there are left luggage desks in each terminal; not lockers, but a desk where you can leave luggage. That's what I did. Check out this (unbelievably long) link for more info (cut and paste it): http://www.heathrowairport.com/portal/controller/dispatcher.jsp?CiID=b417b65fbe442010VgnVCM100000147e120a____&ChID=3cc6d125cc775010VgnVCM10000036821c0a____&Ct=B2C_CT_GENERAL&CtID=448c6a4c7f1b0010VgnVCM200000357e120a____&ChPath=Home%5ELHR%5EAirport+Information%5ETerminal+4%5ETerminal+A-Z%5ELeft+Baggage
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Not All Grandparents Are Stingy: Just for the record, my grandparents (80-90) tip well!
Gary Lee: Okay, a shout out to the generous grand 'rents of the world...
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tipping in Prague: A few weeks ago in Prague, we tried to tip the usual 3-5% (as suggested in the guidebooks) and asked for change for a 50 crown note, only to be told that "they don't deal in coins" at the restaurant. Clearly a tactic to get us to leave a larger tip, but one that did not sit well with us, and made us feel taken advantage of. Had we been Czech, I suspect we would have been treated differently.
Gary Lee: probably. thanks for that story. interesting that people have different tipping stories in the same country.
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Ballston, Va: I enjoyed the Vegas story, but just because the writer was from Columbia or whatever didn't mean he was necessarily a great writer...I agree, it felt more like a blog than an actual travel story. It had a different feel than the other trip recaps I've read from the Post travel writers, probably because the kid wasn't a professional writer (which I'm sure was part of the charm for some, but didn't fully work for me).
KC Summers: Gosh no, going to an Ivy League school doesn't guarantee that a person is a good writer. We don't base our story acceptances on where people went to school, but on the quality of the writing. Interesting that a few people are picking up on the blog aspects of the story. We've used the "Day 1" or "tick tock" format for years, actually -- it just seems to fit certain types of stories. For example, our recent Puerto Rico story was written tick-stock style. Whatever you want to call it, it's good to mix up the approach, don't you think?
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Re: Peru: I third the country as a fabulous tourist destination, and really enjoyed a brief (don't need more) trip to Nazca in addition to a week in Lima and a week in Cusco. The country is, as we type, mid-heated and closely contested election... Hopefully it will resolve happily by August.
Gary Lee: Thanks...
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Virginia: Margi, Is getting a Eurail pass still an economical way to travel Europe? I used it when I was a student, but don't know if I should recommend it for my younger cousin heading over there. Aren't there reservations and things that you have to worry about? I just remember it being a bit more hassle than I'd thought it would be.
Margi Erway: Virginia: The Eurail is still a great way to get around Europe. Many trains do require a reservation (several High Speed, night, and hotel trains). When in doubt, refer to your Eurail Traveler's guide or the train station. If you and your cousin are worried about the trip becoming a chore, then check out organized backpacking companies like Intrepid, Contiki, or Top Deck. They take the stress out of planning trips to Europe with flexible itineraries, experienced group leaders, accommodation guarantee, some meals and tons of activities. It is also a great way to meet like-minded travelers!
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Washington, DC: Speaking of hotel tipping ... I don't stay in hotels often (I usu travel to places where I've got generous friends/family with whom to crash). What is the standard. My last stay I left $2 a day (including check-in and check-out) but now that seems low. Does base tip amount change based on how fancy the hotel is, if it caters to tourists, etc? Thanks!
Gary Lee: It does depend on the level of the hotel and the level of service. Personally, I leave three or so dollars a night in bugdet places and five to ten in pricier joints.
I always try to remember that folks are making their livelihood on what I tip.
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Washington, DC: Hi all - I'm planning a month-long language study trip to Antigua, Guatemala this July. How soon do I need to buy tickets? What's a reasonable fare for DC to Guatemala City? (My dates are flexible on return, but not departure). Thanks!
Margi Erway: July is an expensive month for airfare so the sooner the better! If you're a student, teacher or under 26 then you can receive exclusive airfare rates at STA Travel. Be sure to research your language program well, and take advantage of extra activities such as cooking or dance classes, Mayan ceremonies, or volunteer programs. Language and volunteer programs are quite popular with my clients.
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Virginia: We finally decided that we would go to San Diego for our honeymoon at the end of May. We've got direct flights, a convertible reserved and a room at the Hotel Del Coronado. We're planning on seeing the Padres play one night. Any restaurants or hidden treasures we should know about?
We were there a year ago in March and did the "must-see" stuff so we don't need to worry about that.
Carol Sottili: Even if you did some of the "must-see" stuff last year, you may enjoy doing some of it again. I spent at least one day a week at the beach and one day at the zoo with my kids for several years and never got tired of it. That said, you probably know that the Gaslamp
Quarter is a chock full of trendy restaurants. Wish I could remember the name of the one I went to for my 50th birthday last year (after I went to a Padre game). I'll let you know next week.
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Chinatown, D.C.: "With all due respect, I'm sure your "trip reports" were just fascinating, but you have to be able to write well to be published in the Travel section."
Why the snotty reply? How rude. I too thought that the Vegas story was a bit thin to be the lead. It was fine, pretty well-written, but not obviously deserving of its top-billing placement.
KC Summers: Sorry, didn't mean to be rude! I was just trying to make the point that it takes more than a trip report to be published in our pages. In this case, the writing was funny and polished, with original insights and observations, and made for an entertaining read -- it was much more than just a recitation of activities.
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Washington, D.C.: Interesting, tipping is the question I have for you since last night when I googled for the weather forcast in Zurich. Anyway, some sites claimed that since a service charge is added to the bill already, so tipping is not required unless having very goog service in a very high class restaurant. Other sites claimed tipping is still expected. So I am confused. What do you say? Thanks.
Gary Lee: My experience is that it's not required but still, on some level, expected.
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Arlington, Va: When I was in Malta last Fall, I left my customary $5/night (well, something like that after an exchange) with a note saying it was for the maid. Upon returning from my first day out, I found a thank you note from the maid! I've never had that happen before. It made my day. So, yes, I upped the tip just a little more. I guess people don't usually tip the maid much there.
Gary Lee: Great story. Sounds like you made someone's day.
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San Antonio, Tex: We usually do not travel on tours, but will soon be going on a trip to Central Europe. What is the custom for tipping tour guides and bus drivers? Both for the week long tour and separate day trips.
Thanks.
Margi Erway: Texas: anywhere from 1-2 dollars per day for the driver and a little more for the tour guide if you felt they are helpful.
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Gary Lee: Much thanks for all your great questions and for the tips on tipping. With so many great stories, it's hard to choose one.
But choose I must. I liked the story about tipping the waitstaff at the Paris cafe and getting warmth back from them, and finally the contract from the bigwig. So in addition to the contract, you also get the prize. If you e-mail me your address at leeg@washpost.com, I will make sure you get it.
Tune in next week!
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Chicago, Ill: Hi Crew, I'm going to Costa Rica May 12-20. We plan to hike thru the national rainforests and trek to see one of the volcanoes. My guidebook recommends that travellers take "galoshes" or rubber boots for these activities. Do you think that's necessary? Thx!
Margi Erway: Chicago: Sturdy trekking shoes or sandals will work fine as long as you dont mind a little mud between the toes.
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