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Where eagles fly: watch them soar near Fresno and Paso Robles - Travel; Millerton Lake

Lisa Taggart

Early on a winter morning, Millerton Lake, about 20 miles north of Fresno, shines in the golden light. The steady dip and sweep of canoe paddles in the calm water is mesmerizing. The murmur of the oars and an occasional creak from the boats are the only sounds.

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The dozen or so paddlers in my group are here to see bald eagles. We want to get a glimpse of California's most magnificent bird, whose outstretched wings could span the length of my canoe tip to tip--about 7 feet. February is one of the best months to view bald eagles in Central California, as migrating birds hang out for the winter around lakes and reservoirs.

Two good spots for viewing the raptors are at Millerton Lake and Lake San Antonio, 25 miles northwest of Paso Robles. You can take pontoon-boat tours at either lake, guided by park rangers or volunteers; at Millerton, you can also join a canoe tour led by the nonprofit conservation group San Joaquin River Parkway and Conservation Trust.

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Before paddling out, participants in both Millerton tours learn about the birds from a state park ranger. Seriously endangered in the 1970s, California's population of bald eagles has grown in the last 30 years due to intensive restoration efforts by parks and environmental groups. Though the population is still fragile, today as many as 1,000 birds overwinter in the state. At Millerton Lake, five pairs were sighted last year. At Lake San Antonio, close to 30 bald eagles were seen.

The lapping of water against the boats adds to the soothing rhythm of the morning. So when river guide Lynn Dee Owens lets out a gentle shriek, I'm startled.

Owens catches herself and points to an oak tree on a steep bank ahead of us. On it is a bald eagle, a juvenile, with a brown head dotted with white patches instead of a full crown of white.

"Only a juvenile," Owens says, disappointment in her voice. But the rest of us are thrilled nonetheless. It's not just a beautiful bird we see, but the state's wild future. We'll take a baby eagle, sure.

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