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Secret lakes: escape to five cool getaways near Northern California's Mt. Shasta - Travel - lakes Castle, Gumboot, Heart, Toad, Siskiyou

Lora J. Finnegan

It's a sticky mid-August day, and tiny Mt. Shasta City, 60 miles north of Redding, seems to drowse in the triple-digit weather. A note on the door of one shop reads, "Closed early due to heat. Went to lake--you should, too!"

Around here, it's easy to take that advice. Just west of town, you'll find a handful of less-visited, pocket-size alpine lakes with names to spark the imagination--Castle, Gumboot, Heart, and Toad. All are in the Shasta-Trinity National Forest; two are in or near the Castle Crags Wilderness. With exquisite blue waters backed by glacier-scraped cliffs or ringed by trees, these lakes are quiet places to wet a fishing line, take a cool dip, or launch a canoe or small inflatable (motorized boats aren't allowed).

Of course, if you want something more civilized, there's also popular Lake Siskiyou--actually a reservoir--with shoreside development including cabins, a campground, a grocery store, and boat rentals.

Whichever lake you choose, getting there is a cinch--all are accessed off Interstate 5 near Mt. Shasta City. Take the Central Mt. Shasta exit, turn west across the overpass, south on Old Stage Road, and then bear right onto W. A. Barr Road.

Castle Lake. Breathtakingly lovely, rockbound Castle Lake, just outside Castle Crags Wilderness, is a classic glacial cirque--essentially a bowl carved out of the granite. The local Shasta and Wintu Indians called this Castle of the Devil, believing an evil spirit lived in the waters and made the spooky noises often heard here in winter (turns out it's just the movement of the ice). But take a dip on a hot summer day and you'll think the water s heavenly--the season's sun helps to warm the surface of this 47-acre lake. Swim early: The elevation is high (5,400 feet) and afternoons can quickly turn windy and chilly. Anglers go for rainbow trout and some brook trout. Nearby, there's a free campground with six sites but no water.

Gumboot Lake. This is the perfect place to use that inflatable raft that's been stashed in the garage. Set just above 6,000 feet, this 7-acre lake is ideal for small, hand-launched boats or canoes (there are no boat ramps or developed beaches). It's not terribly deep--averaging 15 feet--but once you're in up to your hips, the water can be wicked cold. Tramp the informal trail looping this tree-ringed pond and you might spot a blue heron or even possibly a pair of nesting bald eagles in tall Douglas firs. The lake is stocked with rainbow trout, but you may also catch the occasional brookie. There's an undeveloped free campground with six sites and no water.

Heart Lake. Just inside the Castle Crags Wilderness boundary, this hike-in lake, at 3/4 acre, may be little more than a pool, but it has a big claim to fame: a perfectly framed perspective of the Fuji-like pinnacle of snowy Mt. Shasta. It does, however, take heart--and lungs--to earn that view. The trail starts at Castle Lake and is 3/4 mile one way--a deceptively short distance. It's a hot, steep pull (gaining more than 600 feet in elevation) up and over a ridge and through a forest of white fir before reaching Heart Lake, which is set in a small pocket meadow. It's not a heavily traveled trail, so pick up a map and get the latest conditions from the U.S. Forest Service. Park at Castle Lake, then take the trail (unmarked, but there's only one) southeast toward Little Castle Lake; at the top of the saddle, veer onto the little-used trail to the right--it's the spur angling over to Heart Lake. The route is illustrated in the Mount Shasta Wilderness & Castle Crags Wilderness Map ($7), available at the Forest Se rvice office. Heart Lake has a few brookies, but it's not noted for good angling.

Toad Lake. Want to test the four-wheel-drive on your SUV? Then head for this backcountry gem--you're sure to leave the crowds behind. There's no development, except for a few picnic tables dotting the shore. This lovely lake at an elevation of 6,400 feet is protected from the wind and is fairly shallow, which makes it pleasant for swimming. Good thing, because after a bumpy 11-mile ride, it's a steep 1/2-mile walk to the 23 1/2-acre lake--and you'll be ready to rip off your clothes and dive in. For those interested in fishing, the lake is stocked with brook and rainbow trout, and has a few brown trout. A caveat: The drive is on unpaved Forest Service roads, and the last half mile is for highclearance vehicles only. The route is not well signed; pick up maps and written directions at the Forest Service office.

Lake Siskiyou. Spreading over 450 acres, it's hardly a tarn. At a little more than 3,000 feet in elevation, this reservoir on the South Fork of the Sacramento River was created for flood control and recreation; it was later retrofitted for hydroelectric generation. Unlike most reservoirs, which get drawn down each summer (including neighboring Shasta Lake), Siskiyou remains fairly full. Its warm, deep blue waters

and broad, buoy-marked swim beach make it a family favorite. Spread a blanket on its pebbly shore and drink in the expansive views of looming Mt. Shasta--you can see almost the whole rise of this 14,162-foot peak. Fish for rainbow, brook, and brown trout, and smallmouth bass. Lake Siskiyou Camp Resort (www.lakesis.com, 888/926-2618, or 530/926-2618) has a wide, pebble-strewn beach ($1 entry); you can rent canoes (from $6 per hour), pedal boats, kayaks, and beach toys. There's also a grocery store, cabins (from $95), and 200 tent sites ($18), plus 120 sites with hookups ($25).

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