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Secrets of Shasta - travel and tourism in Mount Shasta area, California

Lora J. Finnegan

Flanked by trout-rich streams, great hiking, and sleepy towns, this mystical mountain is amazingly uncrowded you could find yourself already unwinding at this uncrowded and affordable vacation destination. Spend a few days or a week and you'll discover Shasta's secret delights.

Start on the mountain

Base camp for ail explorers here is the thriving town of Mt. Shasta. Its population? "Pushing 4,000" estimates county tourism director Joanne Steele. "I've seen big changes in this town during the time I've lived here. For example, the old feed store is now an office equipment shop," she notes wryly "But what's great is that we kept that small, alpine town flavor that urban warriors look to for rest and relaxation."

Set on the mountain's west slope at a 3,500-foot elevation, the town is quaint, with broad tree-shaded streets and old-fashioned street lamps. It hasn't been Carmel-ized. There are a few trendy shops, a neat bookstore, and a recreation gear shop, but the main drag still boasts an appliance store, hardware store, and locally owned clothing shops. "But we are civilized," notes Steele. "Now you can get freshly roasted coffee at several spots in town, and we have some really great restaurants."

The mountain itself is just behind the town, looming so high it creates its own weather and often wears a wreath of clouds (check the weather before planning a hike).

An easy drive up the Everitt Memorial Highway from Mt. Shasta city takes you 14 miles up the mountain to the Mt. Shasta Wilderness, part of the Shasta-Trinity National Forest. Viewed from so close, Shasta's summit is rocky and sharp-edged, and its volcanic origins were obvious to John Muir, who described Shasta as "a fire mountain, created by a succession of eruptions of ashes and molten lava."

Halfway up the mountain at an elevation of 7,600 feet is the trailhead to one of the best hikes on Shasta. leading from Panther Meadows Campground, the 1.4-mile trail to Gray Butte is an easy walk through red and white firs and around a meadow full of Indian paintbrush, columbines, and leopard lilies. At road's end (1/2 mile beyond Panther Meadows), pull over at the lookout point and drink in the view: west to shining Lake Siskiyou and the jagged Trinity Alps, and southeast to snowcapped Mt. Lassen.

Cooling off: rivers, lakes, falls

Just to the east is McCloud, until recently, one of the West's last company towns. Resident Annette Spitsen remembers it as an almost idyllic place--if you followed the rules. "Locals called the company 'Mother McCloud' because it gave you your house, educated your kids, and rang bells to tell you when to get up and go to work," she explains on a walk through town. "Of course, only employees could live here, and if you misbehaved or lost your job, you had to move."

Today, sleepy McCloud appears happily caught in a time warp. You can spend the night in the restored 1915 McCloud Hotel, hop on the Shasta Sunset Dinner Train and dine in 1916 cars, or have a juicy burger with a side of gossip at the McCloud Soda Shoppe & Cafe.

After tramping around the town on a hot summer's day, you'll be glad to cool off. Take a dip in the deep blue waters of Lake Siskiyou or the even chillier Castle Lake, both just west of Mt. Shasta. Or trek along the McCloud River, just off State 89, to angle for wily trout or be soaked in the mist of the river's frothy Lower McCloud Falls. You'll wonder why it took you so long to discover Shasta's secrets.

Mount Shasta travel planner

In June, mornings and evenings are crisp, with midday temperatures in the 80s. A good guide to the area is The Mt. Shasta Book, by Andy Selters and Michael Zanger (Wilderness Press, Berkeley, 2001; $16.95; 800/443-7227). For lodging and recreation information, contact the Siskiyou County Visitors' Bureau (877/747-5496 or www.visitsiskiyou.org) or the Shasta Cascade Wonderland Association (800/474-2782 or www.shastacascade.org). Area code is 530 unless noted.

Activities

Castle Lake. This picture-postcard alpine lake, set in a granite bowl, is popular for swimming, fishing, and picnicking. From W.A. Barr Rd., turn left on Castle Lake Rd. and go 7 miles to the end.

Lake Siskiyou. Its warm, deep blue waters invite a summer swim. Head for the Lake Siskiyou Camp Resort and its broad beach. From 1-5, take the central Mt. Shasta exit, then go left on W.A. Barr to the lake. $1. (888,) 926-2618.

McCloud River attractions. To reach Lower McCloucl Falls from 1-5, take State 89 east and go 5 miles past the town of McCloud; exit at Fowlers Campground and follow signs to the falls. The Upper McCloud River is a famed trout stream; check regulations and purchase tackle at Ted Fay Fly Shop (4310 Dunsmuir Ave., Dunsmuir; 235-2969).

Mt. Shasta. Get day-hike maps at the U.S. Forest Service office in Mt. Shasta (204 W. Alma St.; 926-4511) or McCloud (2019 Forest Rd.; 964-2184). The Mt. Shasta Board, Bike and Ski Park offers summer chairlift rides and mountain bike rentals (rides from $12; 926-8610 or 800/ 754-7427). Don't attempt to reach the peak without a guide-it's not for novices.

Shasta Sunset Dinner Train. On a line built to transport lumber, the train winds from McCloud through the forest to either McIntosh Vista or Mt. Shasta. On the 40-mile journey, you ride in elegant dining cars while enjoying an outstanding meal. $59 (lunch train), $75 (dinner train). 964-2142 or (800) 733-2141.

Dining

Lily's. In fair weather, head for the deck. Patrons come for hearty breakfasts; lunch and dinner fare ranges from vegetarian dishes to pastas and seafood. 1013 S. Mt. Shasta Blvd., Mt. Shasta; 926-3372.

McCloud Soda Shoppe & Cafe. Inside the historic Mercantile Building, you'll find good diner food (great milkshakes). 245 Main St., McCloud; 964-2747.

Serge's Restaurant. Jeans-clad hikers come for Continental cuisine served in a charming Victorian. 531 Cbestnut St., Mt. Shasta; 926-1276.

Trinity Cafe. You'll think you never left San Francisco: The cafe offers a sophisticated seasonal menu, microbrews, a great wine list. 622 N. Mt. Shasta Blvd., Mt. Shasta; 926-6200.

Lodging

Camping. With 76 developed campgrounds and more than 1,000 sites, Shasta-Trinity National Forest has plenty of places to camp. From $8. (877) 444-6777.

McCloud Guest House. Lumber company honchos once hobnobbed here, and now it's a handsome B&B. From $95. 606 W Colombero Dr., McCloud; 964-3160, (877) 964-3160, or www.mccloudguestbouse.com

McCloud Hotel. The Ogden family turned a once-faded milltown hotel into a classy 17-room bed-and-breakfast. Check out the owners' 1938 Plymouths parked in front. More rooms and a restaurant are soon to come. From $103, 408 Main, McCloud; 964-2822, (800) 964-2823, or www.mccloudbotel.com.

Mount Shasta Resort. Choose from 15 studio rooms or 50 attractive chalet-style bungalows facing Lake Siskiyou or the links; there's an 18 hole golf course and a restaurant. From $95. 1000 Siskiyou Lake Blvd., Mt. Shasta; 926-3030, (800) 958-3363, or www.mountsbastaresort.com.

Strawberry Valley Inn. There are 15 tastefully upgraded rooms and a lovely garden. From $58, 1142 S. Mt. Shasta Blvd., Mt. Shasta; 926-2052.

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