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Over-travel = bad

Alex Hamilton

If your $3,000 hog leg moves while the bullet is still in lie bore, you have just shot a flyer. One way to keep your Roscoe :steady while the bullet is making its millisecond journey down the spiral tube is to have a trigger stop installed to stop the trigger from coming back after it has completed its function.

all match triggers for the 1911 have trigger over-travel screw installed to make this adjustment simple. Other handguns can pose problems as to how to get an over-travel stop installed. I'm not a big fan of tong unsightly screws sticking out the rear of a trigger and will always opt for a stop hidden internally or out of sight. I also prefer internal: welded stops over screws, since screws have a tendency to turn in or out depending on the rifling twist which could spell disaster for the good or bad guy in a High Noon shootout

There are a jillion ways to weld internal stops on every single gun out there. Most are really tricky and require delicate spot welding on critical parts, but the effort is well worth it. Also, internal welded stops necessitate you take the bloomin' piece apart tort at least three or four times in order to get the stop filed to just the right length. On Colt-style single actions a drop of weld on the front of the very thin, delicate trigger works great, but you better be a really good welder with an understanding of "heat sinking." This is also true for Ruger single actions, but not quite as delicate a welding job.

Trigger stops on D/A autos and others with transfer bars running from the trigger back to the hammer can have a drop of weld placed on the front of the bar to stop trigger movement. On D/A guns just be sure the double action has plenty of room to operate, but that is normally not a problem. Pistols such as SIGS and a few others have significant over-travel and benefit greatly by having a stop installed.

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