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Out for a Lark: explore the gastronomic and natural wonders of Marin County's Larkspur - Travel

At the turn of the century, San Franciscans used to flock across the Golden Gate to Larkspur for outdoor dances and sleepovers in the mild-weathered woods. These days San Franciscans are still flocking to Larkspur--only now it's for the food.

"It's so close to Mt. Tamalpais and it's such a quaint little town, with history and parades," says Roxanne Klein of the all-raw, all-vegan restaurant Roxanne's (dinner Mon-Sat; 320 Magnolia Ave.; 415/924-5004). Her new book, Raw (Ten Speed Press, Berkeley, 2003; $35; www.tenspeedpress.com), which she wrote with Charlie Trotter, has made Roxanne's an even hotter commodity than when it opened in late 2001.

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"Other places just don't have the same soul," Klein says. Or the same food-obsessed crowd: Tables at Roxanne's often book a month in advance, and the prix fixe tab starts at $44. Now the rest of us can order cheaper take-out vegan concoctions next door at Roxanne's To Go (316 Magnolia; 415/924-9088).

Across the street is the entrance to Baltimore Canyon Open Space Preserve and neighboring preserves. Walk about 1 mile up Madrone Avenue (which turns into Water Way) to the start of the Dawn Falls Trail, which parallels Larkspur Creek through a shade-filled, second-growth redwood forest about another mile to the creek's origin, 35-foot-high Dawn Falls. Here the trail connects with others; take the Hoo-Koo-E-Koo Trail 1/4 mile south for a sweeping view of the bay and San Francisco.

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Back in town, reward yourself with award-winning cannoli pastries at Emporio Rulli (464 Magnolia; 415/924-7478). Or hit happy hour at the Lark Creek Inn (happy hour 5-7 Mon-Fri, lunch Mon-Fri, brunch Sun, dinner daily; 234 Magnolia; 415/924-7766), housed in a handsome yellow Victorian; it was Marin County's first destination restaurant when it opened in 1988. Have dinner a few doors down at New England clam shack-style Yankee Pier (lunch, dinner daily; 286 Magnolia; 415/924-7676), or Left Bank (lunch, dinner daily; 507 Magnolia; 415/927-3331), which serves rustic bistro fare.

Like those early urban pleasure-seekers who camped out here for days on end, you may find that you never want to leave.

COPYRIGHT 2004 Sunset Publishing Corp.
COPYRIGHT 2004 Gale Group