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Talk About Travel; Maui, Edinburgh, traveling with a wedding dress…

Byline: The Flight Crew

The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions. About the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.

We know you have a choice in online travel forums, and speaking for the entire Flight Crew, we want to thank you for flying with us.

You may also browse an archive of previous live travel discussions.

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Cindy Loose: Welcome to Travel Chat.

Our goal is to answer as many questions as we can, with your help. During the chat, I'll tell someone who's been particularly helpful that they've won a writing desk you prop on your lap while in bed or lounging in a big comfy chair. To claim it, you have to send your name and address to loosec@washpost.com.

In addition to answering reader travel queries, we're also soliciting your feelings on traveling in the wake of terrorist bombings in London, Turkey and Egypt over the past couple weeks. If the chance for a big trip came up, would you choose to avoid these three locations? Does it make you wary about traveling anywhere else?

Joining us today from our end: your host, me, Cindy Loose, along with John Deiner, K.C. Summers, Carol Sottili, Andrea Sachs and Anne McDonough. Let's roll.

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Fairfax, Va.: There is probably not a simple answer to this question, but any guidance is appreciated as we contemplate a cruise before Christmas. We have gone over the Post Travel articles and reviewed the websites and think that we have a plan, but want to make sure that this is a decent ship and destination before putting down $$$.

This is an early graduation gift for one of our daughters and we are down to two 4 night cruises leaving on December 19th. One is on Carnival Fascination to Key West and Cozumel and the other is on the RCCL Majesty of the Seas to Nassau and Key West. The Fascination gets good reviews for teenagers, but Royal Caribbean sees pretty decent, too. Is one destination better than the other that time of year?

We can get a 'superior' oceanview cabin for $525-540 per person which should keep the entire trip with shore excursions within our $3500 budget.

Cindy Loose: If all else were equal, and assuming you and the kids like to swim, I'd choose Key West and Cozumel as destinations. Nassau is a little cold for swimming that time of year--you can do it, and the sun is warm, and it's great beach walking, tanning, golfing weather, but the water is cold to my taste. But also rememember--ports can change without warning, but most likely, they'll take you where they were planning to go.

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Washington, DC: My credit card (an MBNA Mastercard) used to be great for foreign-currency transactions, but a few months ago they decided to start charging a few percent surcharge. Do you or other chatters know which credit card companies still have reasonable foreign currency rates?

Cindy Loose: I wrote about the trend for credit cards to gouge clients overseas back in March. At that time, MBNA, Capital One and a number of smaller banks and credit unions were declining to add any charge beyond the 1 percent assessed by Visa and Mastercard. Since then, I was aware that MBNA tagged on a couple more percentage points. As far as I know, Capital One has not, but you'd have to check---they might have changed since March and I missed it. If they have joined the trend, I'm afraid you'll have to shop around smaller banks and credit unions. By the way, American Express charges a 2 percent foreign currency exchange fee.

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Baltimore, Md.: We're going to D.C. on our wedding night and the night after, a sort of mini-honeymoon -- Nationals tickets and the rest of the time lounging about the hotel. We made reservations at Mandarin Oriental and since have read many negative reviews, and few positive ones, on Trip Advisor.

Do any of you know much about DC hotels, or can you point me to resources that do?; What can you tell me about the Mandarin, or can you recommend another luxe hotel in the city?; (The Four Seasons is booked.) Mainly we want a comfy room, big tub, access to a spa, yummy room service. Location isn't that important.

Thanks!;

Anne McDonough: How about the Westin Grand or Embassy Row? Cindy suggests the Monaco for a boutique hotel (www.monaco-dc.com). Steve-o says a lot of the Nationals stayed at the Mandarin when they first came to town, if that ups it in your estimation. Check out www.washington.org (that's the Washington, DC Convention and Tourism Corporation) for some other ideas as well.

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Fortaleza, Brazil: If we take Amtrak from New York City to Toronto on Oct. 6, how likely are we to see many Fall colors along the way? What about once we arrive? Thanks!

Cindy Loose: I'd think chances are very good, although you might be a tad early for absolute peak, judging from last year. Of course these things vary from year to year, depending on weather. But I just did a google search, typing in "fall leaves" and among other sites, up came at site for Ontario. The site hasn't be updated since Oct. 28, 2004, but last year's reports should provide some insight into what might happen this fall. The report from last fall on Oct. 28 was reporting that some areas at that date had peaked, 90 percent of leaves down, but Niagara Falls and Toronto were great at that time. No one will know for sure exactly what's up with leaves until you get closer to the date, at which point you should do a web search.

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Arlington, VA: Our family is going to Disneyworld Christmas week. For the past two weeks, I have been checking airafres. Initially, I saw airfares in the mid-200s. Now a nonstop flight out of National is over$400 per person.

There look to be a lot of empty seats on the flights. Should I not worry and assume that the price will come down again in the next few months?; What is a good fare to Orlando that week (I know it's the busiest week of the year at Walt Disney World.)?; Also, I tried looking at Independence's website, but it looks like they aren't takin reservations for December yet. What is their policy on reservations?;

Thank you.

Carol Sottili: $400 is too much. But anywhere in the $200s is good for Christmas week. If you want to save money, you have to be flexible. Look at Dulles and BWI. Consider connecting flights. Travel on Christmas Day and New Years Day. That type of thinking can save you money. As for Independence Air, I think they release their flight schedules for booking about three months in advance only, so I'd keep trying that.

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Headed to Maui: Hi guys, I'm headed to Maui in about two weeks. What are the spots you all recommend for snorkeling?; I've seen the expensive tours advertised, but in the hopes of saving some money, am looking at just doing it from beaches. Any other recommendations for things I shouldn't miss?; Thanks!;

John Deiner: You lucky dog. I'm pretty sure Maui is ringed by good snorkeling--many resorts offer it right off their beaches. All you have to do is rent the equipment. Also just found a Web site called Snorkel Maui that seems to offer tons of good info; it's at www.adigital dreamer.com/snorkel. If you can find the money, snorkeling off of Molokini, a big ol' volcanic crater off Lahaina, is amazing and fun and real memorable.

As far as other stuff, there's the road to Hana (give yourself a day), either biking or hiking or just visiting Haleakala National Park, killing time shopping and eating in Lahaina . . . and lots of other things. Check out www.visitmaui.com.

Any other help out there?

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Washington, DC: My sister will be traveling to Cameroon next month to volunteer with an NGO for a few weeks. While she is quite excited my mother is seriously concerned. Leaving the family dynamics to Ms. Hax, I have found myself in the position to be listening to both sides with increasing frequency. Are there any resources you can point me to where I can gain some knowledge of the country and if any of you have traveled to that region can you give your thoughts on solo female travel. From what I have found it seems that August is certainly not prime travel season but I really do not know too much else. Thanks.

Cindy Loose: You can get country reports from both the FBI and the CIA at www.travel.state.gov, and www.cia.gov. I should think the NGO should provide some info, too. And how about you Cameroon-connected chatsters?

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Fredericksburg, Va.: We are thinking about taking a long bus trip (19 days) with Sunshine Tours out of Dublin, Virginia.It's cross country with basically a new hotel every night. Has anyone ever traveled with this outfit which specializes in bus trips? Thanks! Kathy

Cindy Loose: No one here knows there---how about you guys out there?

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Central Valley Calif.: I'd jump at the chance for a trip. I had a trip to London and Paris booked and the Iraq war started at the same time. I cancelled, not for safety, but a hand a vision of large numbers of travels slumped for days against their luggage and Heathrow, after some unfortunate event shut down the airlines. Some friends went, undaunted, and had the time of their lives. Moral: when you get the chance to go......Go!

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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Washington, DC: Happy Monday to the Flight Crew. My wife and I are traveling to Greece next month and we have a few questions regarding customs and currency. First, we have a layover in Amsterdam on both legs of the trip. Since we have connecting flights, do we have to go through customs in Amsterdam?; Also, we don't plan on checking our luggage. Would this make a difference in terms of customs?; Lastly, what would be the best way to pay for items while in Greece (mainly the Greek Isles), credit card or the Euro. If the Euro, should we exchange for the currency here in the U.S. before we leave for the trip?; Thanks for your help.

Andrea Sachs: You will not go through customs/immigration until your final destination--Greece. Just don't leave the Amsterdam airport and you will be fine (in other words, stay in your security gate area). As for luggage, it does not make a difference whether you have check your luggage or not; officials will inspect all of your bags, whether they flew under or "over" the plane. Credit card is usually the best way to pay, but you might be in some small towns that don't accept plastic. For euros, exchange in Greece, at exchange bureaus; avoid airports, they have weak rates. Or use an ATM--just be aware of usage fees.

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Washington, D.C.: I'm going to be in San Francisco in early Sept. and would like to take a trip to Yosemite Nat. Park for a couple of days. I don't want to drive out there, so are there package tours or excursions available from San Francisco? Thanks! H.B.

Steve Hendrix: Lots and lots of them, WDC, judging by the hits I just got by Googling "San Francisco" and "Yosemite Tour." For example: two or three day tours beginning at $292 a person with California Parlor Car Tours. I'd look at Sierra Club trips, too.

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Washington, DC: "Bridesmaid Revisted" told the tale of my summer!; I have 9 weddings this summer, and every weekend is either a shower, a bachelorette party or a wedding. Next summer proves to be more of the same. Its good to know that I'm not the only wedding warrior out there with a ton of frequent flier miles. Thanks for the article!;

Anne McDonough: Thanks for the thanks, DC! And good luck with your marathon summer-I have just one left this summer (so far!) and am rather sad about the season slowing down. I'm going to milk this one for all it's worth. What's been truly great about all of these was how different each and every ceremony/reception was the next. I hope you've had the same experience!

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Annapolis, Md.: Answering your question. I definitely resist the temptation to cancel a trip because of terrorist actions. It seems like we all should GO ANYWAY. (Mother-daughter and sister-niece trip is ON for Southern France). It is like when your kid is ready to drive without you - you know you've taught them and watched them and then you have to let go each time and say a prayer and go on with your day.

Cindy Loose: An interpid traveler.....

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Travel to London: I just booked a trip to London for the Christmas holidays. I plan to ride the tube, and the double decker buses - those are two of my favorite ways to get around (the black cabs being my other favored means of transport)!; I am sure I'll be more aware of the people around me, but I am going to go about my holiday as usual, albeit more aware of the people around me.

Cindy Loose: I'm sure Londoners will be glad to see you.

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Booking online fares: I have a question/gripe about booking some cheaper fares on line and was wondering if you could shed some insight into the matter.

To start the process, the system asks me to pick a departure date, with a calendar for the next few months and only certain dates highlighted as "available" dates for the fare requested. Fair enough, I guess...

But then I click on a date, and I get a second screen that says "pick another departure date" -- the date I originally picked, along with two or three dates before it, have been replaced with X's. I pick alternative dates, and again, those dates get X'd out. This continues until I lose my patience and give up on the fare.

Once, when I book a flight to Spain, I literally had to click on every single date that was originally offered, only to find that, in fact, none of them were truly "available." Why advertise it if none of the "available" seats are actually available?;

Thanks for letting me vent. If you have any explanations for this, that would be great too!;

Carol Sottili: When an airline has a sale, it usually means that it has released only a limited number of seats at that fare on any particular flight. The airlines don't tell us how many seats they have on the flight at the cheapest level. My feeling is that they fluctuate the number of seats based on how the sale is going. The key is to book as soon as the sale is announced. If you wait even a few days, the cheap seats are gone. And if you're talking about the least expensive regular fares (no sale involved), you need to book as far in advance as possible, especially on an discount airline such as Southwest.

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Lancaster, Pa.: We will be going to Bonaire next week for vacation outside the hurricane belt. Do you have any thoughts on side trips to South America as Venezuela is 50 miles away?

Cindy Loose: We haven't done sidetrips from Bonaire--can anyone help?

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Fairfax cruises: In addition to differences between ports for the Carnival and RCCL cruises, you should think about the differences in the cruise lines, particularly regarding who it appeals to. The impression I have of Carnival is that it tends to attract a younger crowd, college kids and the like. That could be good if you like more of a party atmosphere, but perhaps not what you're looking for.

Cindy Loose: Our impression is that RCCL is not quite as much as a party atmosphere, and has more stuff for smaller kids. In that respect, Carnival has a more party-like atmosphere. Thanks for reminding us of those differences. If you're taking teens, check drinking ages--I think most of them are 18.

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Washington, D.C: Hi Crew!; Do you all (or other chatters) have any suggestions for a spot in Arizona or elswehere in the Southwest to have a relaxing ladies weekend retreat?; Canyon Ranch is, alas, too rich for our blood, but anything along those lines would be perfect!; We're thinking Jan/Feb 2006, if that matters. Thanks!;

Cindy Loose: Try looking at www.spafinders.com. By the way, any readers know a specific spot that sounds perfect for a ladies weekend?

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About Cameroon: A friend in grad school did her internship in Cameroon for the summer with an NGO. As a single female she had a great experience, and really said there were NO problems, even out in the rural areas she would go to for work. This was 2 years ago, but should still hold true.

Cindy Loose: Cameroon info....

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Springfield, Va.: I know it's too late for this summer, but a rustic cabin on the lake somewhere in Vermont, Maine or New Hampshire is something I would love to plan for next year. Have any of you done this before?

John Deiner: Hey, Spring. Is it really too late for this summer? You could always hop on a cheapo flight to New Hampshire (Manchester) and go from there. I've been to cabins on two lakes in the states you mention, Moosehead Lake in Maine and Squam Lake in New Hampshire (actually an inn, but, ya know, a real lake!). I know Moosehead has tons of cabins to choose from; we stayed at an icky fishing cabin in early May that I can't recommend, but maybe the e-crowd have something up their collective sleeves.

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Washington, D.C.: On a recent flight from Beijing to Newark on Continental Airlines, my connecting flight to Washington National airport was cancelled. My flight had arrived in Newark around 3:30 PM after a grueling 13 hour flight. When I arrived, I was told that a few flights to DC had already been canceled, yet my flight was not terminated until 9 PM, and I was not given a hotel and new flight reservation until 10:30 PM. By the time I ate some food at the hotel, I had merely 3 hours before I had to be back at the airport for my 6 AM flight to DC. Shouldn't I be in line for something in return?; I don't want to fly Continental again....

Andrea Sachs: You should, but you probably won't. The airline followed protocol and did everything required on its end. You can try to contact customer relations, but since they did give you the hotel room and a new flight, they are no longer responsible.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Is Belize good for all ages- are there nice places to stay (meaning somewhat luxurious). Your previous comments have been that it has ruins to visit and good day trips. Nice beach? Decent food. How long will it take to get there from DC. Also can you name a good chat travel web site-where people talk about these things daily- Thanks.

KC Summers: Hi SS. Yes, Belize is good for all ages (who doesn't like warm, crystal-clear water to splash around in?) and there are definitely luxurious places to stay. Francis Ford Coppola's resort, Blancaneaux Lodge, is probably the most famous of these; it's set in a pristine jungle in the Cayo District (inland) and you stay in fancy individual cabanas. There's a spa. Coppola recently opened another luxury resort in the country, the Turtle Inn, in Placencia, farther south, that's supposed to be incredible. Other luxury places with good reputations are the Mopan River REsort (probably the most affordable all-inclusive in Belize),also in the Cayo district; Jaguar Paw; Chaa Creek; and, on Ambergris Caye, Victoria House.

As for nice beaches, some of these places have decent stretches of sand, but you don't really go to Belize just to go to the beach; it's more about snorkeling, diving and exploring the jungle and Mayan ruins.

Other chats: Try Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree, or Tripadvisor.com.

Getting there: There are nonstop flights from Charlotte, N.C., and (I think) Newark, so figure about an hour getting to one of those cities from DC, then about three hours to get to Belize City, then a couple hours' drive if you're heading inland (your resort will pick you up at the airport), or a short (20-min) hop by air to one of the cayes.

Info: Belizetourism.org.

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Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: I have heard that you can choose to give up your checked luggage allowance on an overseas flight in exchange for a greatly reduced fare. I have tried to do some research on this on the internet, and have found a few organizations where you pay a yearly fee to be alerted of these flights. Have you heard of any reputable organizations like these?

Carol Sottili: I think this is related to being an air courier, which used to be a very common way to travel cheap, but has become increasingly rare in the post 9/11 world. There are membership groups you can join that will give you a list of air couriers - www.courier.com, www.aircourier.com - but they are middlemen. Actual courier companies come and go with great frequency, so I don't feel comfortable recommending any.

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Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: To answer your question, I think it depends on who is paying. If I won a free trip to London, Turkey or Egypt, I would go. But in choosing how to spend my own dollars, I would pick someplace else.

Cindy Loose: I guess that comes closest to my personal feelings. Also, I'd go for business, but have a higher threshold for hassles and worries for vacations.

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Fredericksburg, Va.: Not a question, this time, but I wanted to point out an error in yesterday's edition, letter section, re: trips to Outer Banks. The Falmouth exit cited is Exit 133, not 130 which is the next exit south off 95 at Rt. 3, Fredericksburg. Kathy

KC Summers: Thanks -- that's what we get for trusting our readers. Just kidding, and sorry about the error.

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Edinburgh in late October: I am travelling to London this October and want to visit Edinburgh and surrounding areas. I have around 2-3 days. Any recommendations on how to spend the time. I am interested in castles and forts but not in museums. Also, does any one have any suggestions for a moderately priced hotel?; Thanks a lot.

Cindy Loose: We're Edinburgh challenged. Can anyone help?

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For Maui traveler: Definitely do the road to Hana and Haleakala. We didn't make it all the way to Hana (turned around somewhere after the Jurassic Park arboretum) because we watned to catch the sunset at Haleakala. Yes, I know everyone goes for the sunrise, but the sunset was stunning and we had the summit completely to ourselves.

John Deiner: Wow, what a great idea. Two points for you. Oh, two points and a star. Thanks for the suggestion!

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Across the US: Hi Flight Crew: THis is my third try with this question, so hoping I'll make it through this time. I'm driving from South Carolina to San Diego next month over 12 days. Any tips or lessons learned from you or the readers?; Must sees?; Planned stops include Knoxville, St. Louis, Kansas City, Amarillo, TX, Sante Fe Area, and Flagstaff. Thanks!;

Steve Hendrix: Third time's the charm, XUS (these hugely broad questions can be easy to pass over in the crush). It's a big country, and whatever tips we come up with would depend largely on the route you pick.

I've only driven cross country once, 25 years, with my high school buddy Braxton. We made a point of not missing New Orleans (we started from Georgia), Dallas, the Grand Canyon and Vegas. Feel free to retrace our steps. I believe the route has been named "America's Least Imaginative Roadtrip Highway" in our honor.

Seriously, my only suggestion is this: If you are an Easterner with limited experience in the great Southwest, speed like hell through the first three days then linger in the Four Corner states.

That, and plan your route to mooch off of as many friends as possible.

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Memphis-bound: We have to catch a flight out of Memphis at 12:40 on getaway day. If possible, we'd like to see Graceland (which is almost next door to the aiport) that morning first.

Anyone have experience with trying to get in line at 9:00 and out by 11:00. (e.g. this should work if we get advance tix; or don't bother--we'll spend your whole two hours in a long line).

Cindy Loose: I think that's pushing the clock, but if I were you I'd call the museum. Perhaps if you got in line even earlier??? Plus, to assure getting through the airport on time you need to allow 90 minutes plus the time it takes to get there.

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Washington, DC: I really enjoyed Anne McDonough's article yesterday. I actually am travelling to CA for my own wedding, and have to deal with carrying on my dress!; Do you have any tips, or should I just hope to get kind-hearted flight attendants?;

Anne McDonough: Whatever you do, don't check it! I believe that wedding dresses carry a bit more weight with flight attendants than attendants' dresses do (I never had my bridesmaid dress hung up in a first class cabin, for example, which I hear is par for the course for many airlines, regardless of where the bride is actually sitting). I'd keep it in the same garment bag you purchased it in, but some of those are larger than the garment bags permitted as carry-ons so you might want to check into that. Whatever you do, chances are you'll have to have it pressed when you arrive at your final destination-no matter how careful you are, whether it's hung up or placed on top of other people's carryons it's going to come out with wrinkles. Mention this when you get your ticket, be early to check in and mention it again to the gate agent. If there's space, I'm sure most airlines would be willing to help out.

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Bethesda, Md.: To the poster who asked about cabin rentals near a New England Lake, may I suggest a quick trip to Deep Creek Lake for this summer?; It's a good 10 degrees cooler there than in DC, only two and a half hours away, and has a very New England type feel to the place. There are many lakefront cabins to choose from, as well as more traditional townhouses and stand-alone homes. Wonderful fall color to look forward to as well. We gave up our annual trips to Maine when we discovered Deep Creek.

John Deiner: Great idea, Beth. How could we forget? Sort of wondering how booked up that area is now as well, but it's a terrific suggestion.

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For the person trying to choose a cruise: I find that the ports are the LAST thing I consider when going on a cruise. So often, the boat docks for 5 or 6 hours, not enough time to do anything much except for an excursion booked through the cruise - and they are pretty much the same all over. I just got back from a stop in Cozumel, which seemed like a smaller version of Cancun. There was no time to wander around and get a sense of what the place was really like. The kids will have more fun on the ship - meeting other teens and hanging around with them. So I suggest going for the one that is geared more toward families...

Cindy Loose: Thanks. Although for me, a swim in a natural body of water is the highlight of any trip for me, so the destination does have some bearing on my decision.

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Washington DC: Travel to Contested Areas: If I had plans already made, I would probably go ahead with them, especially if I were going to see something unique. For example, I would tour the ruins etc. in Egypt, because this is unique to the country and a main reason for visiting, but I don't know that I would go just to lie on a beach at Sharm el-Sheik, since there are equally lovely beaches in a number of other places that haven't been targeted.

Cindy Loose: Good point. Thanks.

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New Year's in Iceland: Do you know of any travel companies that have tours to Iceland for New Year's?;

Andrea Sachs: Try Icelandair (www.icelandair.com), Scantours (www.scantours.com), Isafold Travel (www.isafoldtravel.is). Also check with Iceland Tourist Board (www.icelandtouristboard.com), to find out where the bashes will be.

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For the Maui person: I'm going to Maui tomorrow!; There is a fabulous guidebook called "Maui Revealed" that goes into much detail about self-guided snorkeling. From reading it, I decided to go myself instead of booking a tour - I would have never known that one of the best beaches for snorkeling is right outside my hotel if I didn't have that book. It's available on Amazon or probably at any bookstore and it's proven to be invaluable to me!;

John Deiner: Guidebooks? What are those??! No, no...thanks much for clueing us in. And lucky you for having grade-a fish-viewing right in your own Maui backyard. Enjoy the trip..give us an update when you return.

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Washington, DC: I am travelling to Johannesburg, South Africa in mid-August on the new South African Airways flight from Dulles. I bought my ticket from Priceline.com through the bidding process. I did purchase the insurance policy offered by Priceline through AIG. SAA crews are now on strike and all international flights are cancelled. If this continues, what are my rights and options?; Will I be placed on another airline?; How will the Priceline purchase affect me?; Thanks!;

Carol Sottili: South African Airways is trying to place passengers on other flights, but seats are limited, and there aren't enough seats to go around. Check the small print on the insurance policy to make sure it covers strikes, and to figure out whether it will merely pay you back for the price of the ticket, or pay for your passage on another airline. Hopefully, the strike will be finished by mid-August.

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Bethesda Mom: Hi Cindy & Crew:

I've just reread Cindy's pieces on Chicago Greeters and Madison Wisconsin. We're flying to Chicago in August as part of our mid-west college tour and I had a few questions: where did you stay in Chicago and is the Loop, Magnificent Mile, or North Side better for sightseeing?; Do you or any of the chatsters know how long it would take to drive to Madison from Chicago, and would this be a possible day trip?;

Thanks!;!;

Cindy Loose: Chicago is about 140 miles and about 2.5 hour drive from Madison, so I suppose it could be a day trip. I'd check into trains, although not sure how the connections are.

As to the best of Chicago--there is no best really, since all the neighborhoods you mention have something to recommend them. Personally, I like the Magnificent Mile, but would make my final decision dependent on price.

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Passport quandry: Does anybody have experience with applying for a passport at one of the DC post office locations?; They say that if you pay to expedite it's 2 weeks, but they don't guarantee anything. I'm worried that when dealing with the gov't, 2 weeks could be 3 weeks, could be...?;

Steve Hendrix: Actually, PQ, my experience with passport renewal and applications (both my own, and the countless family and friends I have shepherded through the thickets) has been uniformly successful. (My Travel colleagues agree. I just asked them.)

You'll get it in two weeks.

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BONAIRE VENZ: I would tell your Bonaire traveler to avoid Venuzuela. The Chavez government is anti _ American and they have been having anti-American protest daily. Could be a bad situation if you get jammed up there.

Cindy Loose: I was thinking about that, but then held back, thinking maybe I was exaggerating the situation. So interesting to hear that occuring to another person.

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Alexandria, Va.: Re: Travel to London. My husband and I travel to London at least twice a year. We stay at one of three hotels near Russell Square. One of the hotels was clearly visible in the news coverage of the Tavistock Square bombings. Ironically, it is the hotel where I spent September 11th, watching the TV in shock and trying to reach home. You bet we're going next week! I want the chance to be as supportive to and united with the people of London, and the Russel Square area in particular, as they were to me when our country was hit. And I want to show the terrorists that a few mad men cannot destroy civilized nations. Sadly, we will be unable to take the Tube as our tube stop remains closed.

Cindy Loose: Bully for you; a stiff upper lip is a good thing to travel with whenever visiting the British. I wish them the best of luck.

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Last Minute Beach Trip: Hi Flight Crew--Hope you can help!;

Boyfriend and I are ditching the DC heat just for the day tomorrow and taking a spur of the moment beach trip--what's the best beach just for the day?;

Thanks for your help!;

John Deiner: Great question, LMBT. It makes for a longish day, but everytime my wife and I do that, we never regret it. We always head to Delaware Seashore State Park, tucked between Dewey and Bethany. Lots of parking, large clean beaches, decent facilities. You have to cut through outer Rehoboth to get to it, so you can always stop there for dinner.

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Washington, DC: A very specific question... do you know when Northwest Airlines is planning on updating their flight timetables?; The current one is only good through August 19. I need a flight in September, but I don't know if the flight I want will be continued or not. Thanks!;

Carol Sottili: My guess is that the flight is not going to be continued into September if you can't book it now. But I'd call Northwest's customer service and ask.

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Washington, DC: What is with airlines charging $100 each way to transport a small pet under a seat? I'm not talking about cargo -- I'm talking carry-on. We have a small dog who easily fits (in his bag) under a seat. What possible justification is there for charging us $200 to make him our carry-on? I certainly can't think of any. Maybe the occasional animal has an "accident" that must be cleaned, but even if 1 of every 5 has an accident, they would have $1000 to spend on that minor cleanup job.

Signed, Furry-ous Pet Owner

KC Summers: Just checked a couple of airlines -- US Airways, United -- and the standard charge seems to be $100 each way for small to medium-sized kennels. US Airways says it's not a new policy, that it's been charging for this service for at least five years. Just one more way for them to make a few bucks, and I wouldn't begrudge it -- it's bound to generate ill will, between complaints from allergic passengers, accidents, etc. This service is limited to dogs, cats and household birds, btw. It gives you paws....

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Washington, DC: My brother's wife and two young children were on an American Airlines flight from Dallas, TX to San Juan, PR via Ft. Lauderdale last Monday evening. About 40 minutes into the flight the plane turned around back to Ft. Lauderdale due to a bomb threat note found on the plane. There are at the least two really odd parts to this story 1. The pilot came over the loud speaker and announced that they were returning to FL because of a bomb threat found on the plane. As anyone would, the folks on the plane, including my niece and nephew, 5 and 7 respectively, freaked out for the next 40 minutes back to the airport. Shouldn't there be some airline protocol as to what exactly is announced by the plane's crew? 2. When they got to the airport, the plane was rightly left out on the tarmac - but so were the passengers! They sat in a plane that was under a bomb threat for 1 B/urs before they were allowed to get off. Having trouble understanding the reasoning. What is airline protocol these days for secutiry threats?

Also, I have a friend going on a cruise to to Ibiza, Mykonos, Santorini, Istanbul and a few other Med places. Can you or the chatsters out there recommend souvenirs for him to look for?

Thanks as always for your input.

Cindy Loose: That is a fascinating tale--I'll look into today. Don't know the protocol, but know I'd be demanding to go down the shoot.

As to souveniers in Greece and Turkey---rugs for one; I bought a flokata and a longhaired sheepskin while in Greece. Jewelry is good. There should be lots of interesting things in the markets of Turkey. Anyone else have suggestions?

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Normal, Ill: Dear flight crew

To answer your question about London, Turkey, or Egypt, I'll deal with the three places separately.

With London it's a no brainer--yes I'd go. London is an extremly safe place to visit. Suggesting otherwise is ignoring reality.

Turkey is really similar in my opinion. It's visited by millions of Tourists a year, and I imagine visiting it is safer than driving to work.

Egypt is the only place I really think about this. I think Western tourist are a little more prey ot this sort of targeting there, though most of the victems of the recent event were Egyptian of course. The lavish tourist resorts probably do make juicy targets for some extremest groups. Still, I imagine it's not really empirically dangerous to visit Egypt, though I havne't looked at any figures.

All in all, I'd take a free trip to any place without much thought, and I'd probably happily spend a vacation at any of them too.

My question--I'm planning a trip to Australia next spring hopefully. I don't have detailed plans yet but I'll certainly visit Melbourne (where I have a friend that I'll stay with), Sydney, and Canberra. With the view that this may be a once-in-a-lifetime trip, what are the essential must-see's in Australia, both in the areas i've mentioned and otherwise?;

Cindy Loose: Funny how free makes it easier, but I understand completely.

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West Coast: For the Wanna-Be Graceland visitor: when I was there a few years ago, the first tour group at Graceland was 8 a.m. My friend and I arrived there about 7:30 a.m., got our tour passes and had time to browse the gift store. We did the main tour in about 70 minutes and were back downtown before 9:30 a.m., in plenty of time for our 10 a.m. business meeting.

Cindy Loose: Hey, first person account. Thanks much!

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Re: Maui Snorkeling: We went on our own, just did some research on several beaches and drove there with our own equipment, just part of exploring the island. That was about 10 years ago but I can't imagine the island changes that much.

John Deiner: Good stuff. Thanks -- sounds as if doing it yourself isn't such a bad idea.

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Re: Venezuela: I would be extremely careful with Venezuela. Its level of crime and attacks on tourists is extremely high, like Colombia. I've been there three times, and while it's gorgeous, its levels of dangers has increased exponentially. If you can get a tour there, it might be OK.

Of course, the most incredible place in Venezuela is Canaima, home to Angel Falls. It has these amazing mesas called tepuis, and over 400 waterfalls. It's so remote-- in the middle of the jungle-- that you can only fly in and out. I've been to 35 countries but it is the single most beautiful place I've ever seen.

Cindy Loose: Thanks

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Scotland: The castle in Edenbourgh is a must - it is pricey (13 pounds last time I was there) but totally worth it. Can't recommend a place in that city as I always stay in Glasgow which is cheaper and there are trains every few minutes to the capital. (the train ride is only an hour or so). I've never been, but was told there is an incredible "undergroun" museum that follows the lives of the citizens who lived underneath the city for generations. And the Parliment building is pretty cool as well.

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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RE: Edinburgh: Not sure what qualifies as inexpensive, but a friend stayed at the Best Western City HOtel in the Old Town. It was nice and convenient. In October it starts to get dark early, so if you do go out of town (and there is more than enough to keep you in town for 2-3 days) plan accordingly. Edinburgh castle could take the better part of one day to explore, especially if you are interested in military history. But be prepared to walk and to walk hills. The Old Town and New Town are only about three blocks apart, but that's one and a half blocks straight down and one and a half blocks straight up.

Cindy Loose: More help with Edinburgh---I really have to check it out sometime. Thanks for the help.

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Bank Fees: I would still use the ATMs anyway, because it is a better rate and way more convenient. One percent of a thousand dollars is ten dollars. That's not too much to pay for convenience. But it is still just the thought.

Cindy Loose: A vote for ATMs. Personally I like credit cards because A. Using credit cards doesn't feel as much like spending money and thus less horrifying as expenditures mount, B. I like to have a record at the end of what I spent, which of course is counter to reason A. How's that for logic?

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Washington, DC: South Africa Airways pax here. I read over the insurance coverage and strike is excluded, so I have no travel insurance whatsoever in the event of a strike. We had to put money down on our very expensive safari lodge and we don't have coverage for that if we cannot get there. I hope things can be worked out soon (and of course, I'm sure they all do far more than I).

Carol Sottili: I'm convinced that lots of travel insurance isn't worth the paper it's written on. There are some good policies out there, but you have to shop around. Go to www.insuremytrip.com or www.quotetravelinsurance.com to compare policies. Don't just buy the policy offered by the provider without reading it. In your case, have you looked into buying insurance now that would at least cover the safari lodge?

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Cameroon alone: I travelled throughout West Africa alone for 6 months as a 20 yr. old female. Never had a problem, on the whole I felt safer than here in DC. Your sister should have a great time. I assume your mom could check with the NGO as well for information on their safety and security procedures (it's likely a huge manual).

It may also help if she stays in close contact with your mom while she's there (in most places internet cafes are everywhere, and cheap--and mobile phones are more prevalent than you'd believe).

Cindy Loose: Good ideas. Thanks.

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Not scared of traveling: I just got back from a 10-day trip to the Philippines, which is experiencing a resurgence of muslim activity in the south. I saw lots of military men in camo sporting submachine guns on Manila street corners for security. It was a bit disconcerting, and didn't necessarily make us feel safer. But I didn't feel that we were in any danger.

If I were planning a trip to London, Turkey or Egypt, I would still go. When I was in junior high, I went to London soon after bombings there in the late 1980's, and I still had a good time.

Cindy Loose: Philippines would scare me now, but then, I'm afraid of rollercoasters.

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Rockville, Md.: Does anyone know of a good, moderately priced hotel within walking distance of Fenway Park in Boston?

Cindy Loose: No--can someone help?

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Portland, Maine: I currently live in Portland, ME and my boyfriend is soon moving to Boston. Can you or others out there think of any nice sidetrips/bed and breakfasts that are located in between. Thanks as always.

Anne McDonough: Any clicksters out there with a favorite inn in the area?

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Charlottesville, Va.: Hi Crew!

I love your chats and have been a long time lurker; now I have a question. I'm going to Oktoberfest this year for the first time. It was a spur-of-the-moment thing, and while I was able to get a hotel room, I'm unsure how to get the most out of the experience. It's too late to get reservations at the fest tents, but I've read that smaller groups don't need reservations. Is this true? There will only be two of us and I'm hoping that if we stake out a spot early enough, we'll have a seat for when things really get going. Also, how do you pay--cash or credit card at the tables, or do you need to prepay or get food/drink tickets before sitting down? Are any tents preferred over others? I'd appreciate any advice you or the peanuts have. Thanks!!

Cindy Loose: Can anyone help---quickly--with Oktoberfest advice?

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Parking Angst: Crew -- I have an 8 a.m. flight out of National next week and am wondering if the parking situation has settled down. Don't want to miss my flight driving around looking for a space, nor do I want to take a shuttle. My return flight lands after 11 p.m., and the last time that happened, no shuttle would pick me up.

Cindy Loose: You need to call ahead.

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McLean, Va.: I just had a GREAT time in Las Vegas. It helps when you win a substancial amount playing poker! Question: I was on a red eye flight from Vegas to Newark on Continental. We had to change planes due to a problem with reverse thrust. Is there any chance of getting compensation due to the 4 hour delay?

Andrea Sachs: You can be reimbursed if you were bumped due to overbooking and had hours of downtime, but not because of mechanical difficulties. Just be happy that you struck it rich in Vegas; Continental is more of a crapshoot.

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avoid travel?: no way!;

I'd never miss a chance to go to London. I'm likely going to go on an Italy/Greece/Turkey cruise next summer. I've been on 4 trips so far this year with at least 3 more coming up (only two are international so far)

the only place I'd likely NOT go - and wouldn't have in the past either - is Egypt. Or elsewhere in the Middle East. it's too bad I might not see the Pyramids, but, they have a long history of going berserk on tourists.

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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Dakar, Senegal: Do you have any good advice about getting cheap tickets to and from the United States while living abroad?; My husband and I are looking for cheap, round trip tickets from Dakar to Washington, DC this fall. I find it is hard to get any good deals because in order to buy through all the main bargain web sites, you must start in the United States. Any ideas?;

Carol Sottili: The major travel sites will sell tickets that start in Dakar, but the price may not be good. I'd try a consolidator. For example, Spector Travel (www.spectortravel.com) has consolidator fares to Dakar, I believe.

Now I have a question for my readers. I'm writing a story about consolidators and would love to hear your stories - both good and bad - about working with these outfits. Email me at sottilic@washpost.com. Thanks!!

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Annandale, Va.: Am planning to go to Paris for a week in Oct. Airfares (even Expedia and the like) are in the $750 to $830 range. Is this high for Oct? Is it fashion show season? Should I consider going in Nov.? I'm going solo so when single supplement is added on doing a air/hotel package doesn't seem to save anything. Should I bite the bullet and use my frequent flier miles? Thanks and I really enjoy Travel Online.

Carol Sottili: Those fares sound high. You could try traveling in November, which is cheaper, or you could wait for a sale. I'm sure there will be something before you travel, as long as you are flexible. If you have enough frequent flier miles, by all means, use them!

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Washington, DC: We will be in Big Sky, Montana in May 06 for about a week. We plan to spend most of our time in Yellowstone of course, but would like to do something that should not be missed in Montana and the vicinity. Plus any suggestion for good local restaurants.

Steve Hendrix: I was in Yellowstone in the winter, and while May won't be quite as cold, I do have a tip for you: Chico Hot Springs Resort just north of the park is a Wild-West old pile with an excellent dining room. Get a room in the creaky old building, soak your bones in the huge pool and then tuck in. www.chicohotsprings.com

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Re: Wedding Gown: I got married in CA last year and carried my dress on to two flights. (Definitely do NOT check it- there was an episode of "Airline" where some woman's dress fell off the belt and got run over by the baggage cart on the tarmac!;) On the first flight, the flight attendant took the dress and hung it up for me as soon as I stepped on to the plane. On the second flight (a much bigger plane), I had to ask a flight attendant if I could use the first-class closet and had to hang it myself, but it was fine. It helped that it was the beginning of September and there were no coats filling the closet. Anyway, you should be fine....

Anne McDonough: Hopefully this will put the heading-to-Calif. bride's mind at rest. Thanks!

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Herndon, Va.: Would I hesitate to visit London, or somewhere in Egypt or Turkey? NO!! Something to remember - after 9/11 a statistician noted in the Post something along the lines of - if the equivalent of a "9/11" happened every month, and someone was flying commercially once a week - that person was still in much more danger driving to and from the airport, than flying on a commercial airline. The bombings are horrible, but, as far as a person's chances of being hurt, they're statisically insignificant.

Carol Sottili: I'm a big believer in the statistical thinking, although when my 17-year-old daughter landed in Heathrow the day of the bombings, I wasn't so sure.

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traveling in troubled times: Even if it were not a big trip just a 3 day get-a-way I am on the plane. I love London I have friends from there and they are coming here in Oct. I may go there in Dec. and you can bet your sweet bippy I am on the tube and anywhere else I want to go.

No rangey outlaw is going to tell me what to do!;

Carol Sottili: That's the spirit.

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Arlington, Va.: Hi crew, I have a couple questions about a flight I'm planning to Australia.

1. I have TSA-approved locks for my suitcase. Do you know if inspectors at overseas airports can open these locks as well? Will I have any problems if I use them on my flights to, from, and within Australia?

2. To get the best price, I wasn't able to book my flight directly from DC to Australia; I had to book the DC-LAX and LAX-Sydney legs separately. Am I going to run into problems with getting my luggage transferred correctly at LAX? Am I going to have to go through security again? Does it matter if the airlines I'm flying between DC-LAX and LAX-Sydney are codeshare partners?

3. I've never gone through customs when I had checked bags; when I come back, will I have to retrieve my bags at LAX, have them inspected, and then check in again for my flight to DC? Or do they just not inspect my checked bags, or inspect them without me there?

Many thanks for your help!

Cindy Loose: I am not at all confident about overseas agents having TSA-approved lock keys, since some agents here don't seem to have them.

I'd be quite worried about having two separate, and I assume nonrefundable tickets. You understand, if for some reason the first airline gets you to the connection point too late to make your flight, the subsequent airline simply considers you a no show. I hope you have many, many hours built into that connection. I don't recommend separate tickets unless you have an overnight stop.

On your flight out, whether or not you must go through security a second time depends on whether or not the second flight is in the same terminal where you arrived. On the way home, you'll have to go through customers personally in LAX.

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Bel Air, Md: Good Afternoon,

I've just started a new job where we get two weeks of vacation per year that we have to use or we lose it at the end of the year. I have a hard time taking vacation just to hang around the house (because I know I wouldn't do anything useful), but at the same time, I can't afford to spend lots of money and take a trip.

Any suggestions for what a young, single female could do for a vacation alone that's not too cost prohibitive?; (I'm not that inclined towards cruises, though I've never been.)

KC Summers: No reason you should take a cruise, Bel Air, if you're not into them -- there are a lot of other vacation options out there. But it's hard to throw out ideas since you don't indicate what your interests are (beach vs. woods? city vs. countryside? etc).

One fun way to approach this would be to go to Southwest, JetBlue, Independence Air or another budget carrier's Web sites, and choose your destination from the places they fly to (especially if they're having a sale). Choose a city with a variety of lodging options and you can put together a nice, cheap little vacation for yourself. Just one example: Fly to Cleveland on Southwest and spend a couple days going to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, taking a cruise on Lake Erie, seeing a show, etc.

Or, check one of the low-budget trip packager sites like go-today.com or travelzoo.com -- they frequently offer amazingly cheap hotel-air packages and you can get some great ideas on places you might not have thought of.

If all else fails, hop in the car and take day trips to one of the many cool cities or towns within a couple hours of DC. Baltimore, Richmond, Charlottesville -- we have a lot of great options to choose from, and you can splurge on a nice lunch with the money you'll save on hotels. Good luck, and let us know what you end up doing.

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Re traveling to the Philippines: For anyone thinking about traveling to the Philippines - Go!; Beautiful islands, fantastic snorkeling, lovely, white sand beaches. The only place where safety is a bit iffy is on the island of Mindanao, in the south. We didn't go there on this trip, although I know some people who did, and they didn't experience any trouble.

Cindy Loose: A vote for the Philippines.

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Washington, DC: Re: Edinburgh, the Queen's Palace at Holyrood is fabulous: interesting tour guides, lots of Mary Queen of Scots trivia, and occasionally really good special exhibits (like the Queen's private collection of da Vinci drawings!;)

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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Alexandria, Va.: For the Edinburgh poster - consider visiting the town of Stirling, which has a wonderful castle and other historic sites (Bannockburn, etc.), and is a day trip from Edinburgh. I highly recommend Derek of Claymore Travel, who can take you there on a tour (we also used Derek for a tour of the Highlands, Loch Lomond and some other small towns with castles).http://www.claymore.btinternet.co.uk/

Cindy Loose: More on Edinburgh

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Arlington, Va.: We're also going to Greece next month. On the way home, we have an overnight layover in Vienna. We're excited to see Vienna, but how will this work, logistically? What should we expect when we arrive at the airport the next morning for our flight back to DC? Will we go through customs or anything? If we check bags, will we reclaim them in Vienna to check through to DC, or will they go right to DC for us to reclaim when we get back?

Thanks!

Andrea Sachs: If you are exiting the gate and airport in Vienna, you will have to go through check-in and security all over again the next morning (plus go through customs on the way out that night). If you sleep in the airport, then you are okay. Depending on the times, the carrier might allow you to check your bags all the way to D.C., or you could lock them up in the Vienna airport. If you take your bags with you for your Vienna overnight, they will have to be inspected again the next morning.

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University Park, Md.: Wine country query: I fell in love with the Sonoma Valley on a recent visit, and I'd like to take my husband there next year. What's a good time to visit, in terms of weather and smaller crowds? Lodging recommendations for both Sonoma Valley and Napa Valley would also be appreciated.

John Deiner: Hey UP. The quick answer to this one is, I believe, is fall, like from late September to early November. The weather is beautiful, the colors gorgeous, crowds not so bad. I've had good luck with Four Sisters Inns, which have a number of beautiful (albeit pricey) bnbs in the Napa/Sonoma region. Check out www.foursisters.com.

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Re: Washington, DC : Thanks for the quick reply on the Greece question. Just to follow up, we have an 8 hour layover in Amsterdam and plan to leave the airport for quick sightseeing. I assume we would have to go through customs once we arrive back at the airport. How much time should we plan for in customs?;

Andrea Sachs: Yes, once you leave, you have to do it all over again. It's just as if you were never in the airport. Two hours is recommended.

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Mount Vernon, Va.: RE: Edinburgh--The major tourist area is the Royal Mile. The Edinburgh Castle tour is great fun, and you get to see an award-winning restroom! You can easily avoid the museums and hit what you're interested in. If you get bored in the city, there's a really nice Marriott hotel with an indoor pool connected to a golf resort in the suburbs. You also can see Saint Andrews.

A question: My family and I want to go to Spain over the Christmas holidays. We're planning to leave December 17, before most schools close, and we could be a little bit flexible about going back, traveling the Monday after New Year's to avoid the hordes. We really don't care what city we fly into--it doesn't even necessarily have to be in Spain. I know Christmas is a hugely busy time of year. Any suggestions for getting a good airfare on a nonstop flight? Thanks!

Cindy Loose: Your flexiblity should help alot in terms of getting a decent airfare. Can't say off hand who has the best priced fares to which cities. I'd say start by picking the ideal city, and working back from there until you find the price you need.

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Columbia, Md.- "Danger": I have zero fear traveling to London or Eygpt, or anywhere else that currently isn't an active war zone. Frankly, the most dangerous thing I do everyday is strapping myself into my little metal-and-plastic bucket and braving I-95. My better half has worked at the White House and now works again at a "terrorist target". I don't pray for his safety at the hands - but on his commute.

Actually, I think the State Dept's warning against travel to London was silly - as horrific as terrorism is, chances of another successful attack in the same location is minimal.

Also - I take warnings with a pound of salt - reading other government's warnings about DC and NYC are eye-openning.

KC Summers: Yes, it's always interesting to read other governments' reports about us (and the rest of the world) -- it's good to check a few sources to try to put things in perspective.

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Travelling in the Wake of Bombings...: I wouldn't hesitate to go to any three of these places, if I had the chance. London is a favorite city of mine, and my first inclination was to go back when the first bombings happened. I was just there in May, doing all the things I love to do, walking around, riding the tube, and generally being part of the city.

I also would not hesitate to go to Turkey or Egypt, given the chance. I'd jump.

It's all about being aware, being careful and not doing anything too stupid. I'd sooner travel halfway around the world before I'd drive around the Beltway!;

KC Summers: Seems to be a common theme...

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Star Tannery, Va,: We're planning a honeymoon over winter break. We're intrigued by Argentina and liked Cindy's article -- what do you know about access to beach, rainforest, and penguins if we're down that way?; Can you recommend other places we might get some relaxation, light adventure, town/city and nature all in one trip?; Someplace that's warm during our winter... (New Zealand our first choice but likely too far and expensive.)

Cindy Loose: There are beaches near Buenos Aires. For penguins, you have to go far south, and I'm not sure whether or not they're there in summer/our winter. But I think you could find every possible sort of terrain in Argentina, you just have to plan on flying between things. It's a very large, and verrrry long country. On the other hand, it seems to have frequent flights among the major sections of the country.

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Washington, DC: Great article on St. Emilion!; Just came back from there in June and really enjoyed the more personal wine tours - emailing ahead of time for an appointment is easy.

I'm head to Paris in early August - how shut down is the city going to be?; Any advice on identifying good restaurants that will be open?;

Cindy Loose: Many, many natives leave Paris in August, and while I don't know how to find out ahead of time which restaurants are open, I'm confident you'll find plenty wishing to cater to diners.

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Cindy Loose: Thanks so much for joining us today.

Would the person with the highly detailed info about Graceland email loosec@washpost.com for today's prize.

See you next week.

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